Grammar man, grammar. It doesn't do you much good to act ignorant and thus make it more difficult for us to understand and help you. I assume you're still in school, take advantage of it and learn how to present a significantly stronger image than most of your generation seem capable of.... Don't worry though, you're far from the worst we've had here.
The oil pan shouldn't leaking just from the engine running. Even at high idle the oil level doesn't really exceed the height of the pan unless it's over filled. You really shouldn't see a drip unless the car has been moving. The loose screws would definitely contribute, but do NOT over torque them! That is a terrible place to have to extract a broken bolt from while the engine is in the vehicle. Torque should be 9ft/lbs. Torque from the inside outward in a star patter like you do with the head bolts. FIPG needs to be applied to the flange surface on the edge inside of the bolt holes.
FIPG = Form In Place Gasket. Typically it is a tin cure RTV silicone sealant. RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing; As opposed to elastic materials requiring heating during mixing and application or tin cure (two part) sealants. I suggest you use Toyota, Honda or Permatex "Right Stuff"where a strong seal is required.
Annoying? Heh, maybe a little but we've all been there.
A LONG time ago for some of us.
I'm writing this on a tablet and touch screens suck. I'll post anything else I think of later when I'm at a computer.
EDIT: If you haven't had the oil pan off yourself and don't know how it was sealed I would use a feeler, a flashlight and a mirror to determine if a cork gasket was installed. If there was I would pull the pan, clean everything VERY thoroughly and seal it properly. If there is a cork gasket you want to take the easy (unreliable) route you may try torquing to about 12ft/lbs and use a medium strength thread locker (the blue stuff).
Also, check the turbo's oil lines and flanges for leaks.