I re-read the entire thread. I missed the item about plugging the ISCV's supply with the throttle closed and the engine still running. This strikes me as a bit odd. If the throttle plate isn't closing completely it needs to be corrected.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cre
Clean ALL of your grounds (big and small, on the engine block, the intake manifold, driver's side kick panel and ECU) and battery cables. Test the AFM's Vs signal voltage at the ECU with someone moving the vane (I linked to a more detailed description on how to do this a long way back in this thread. Do it both when the AFM is cool and the heat it up heavily with a hair dryer and test again), test FC on the AFM both when it's hot and when it's cool. Wiggling wires does dick... take measurements, test for voltage drop. Check for loose, broken, corroded connectors. Test for voltage drop across Vc from the ECU to the AFM and TPS connectors. Vc should measure around .48 to .5v. Go through the fuse boxes and replace any fuses which are not the proper value (and make sure the previous owner didn't bypass anything else like they did with the 100A FL). Bypass the fuel pump resistor pack and relay if you like, it's not going to hurt anything to try it but generally it fails the other way around. You got rid of the code 51 right? Verified that the vacuum lines are all run properly?
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^^^Have you made it through this yet?
You should also have a look at the wiring to the climate control head unit, the blower and inspect the blower motor resistor pack for damage or tampering.
Did you replace the fusible link?
Have you located the grounds to the intake manifold?
Does the car die if just the heater is turned on or just if the blower is on at all?
Did the fuel pump resistor bypass get you anywhere?