clutch slip

Burn N' Up · 11-28-2005, 06:13 AM

Ok skunk, here is the deal...

I have dropped my Supra R154 tranny a bunch of times no problem but there are a few tricks. The best clutch kits for the price are on Ebay BTW.

You should have:
-at least 24 preferrably 36 inches of extensions in size 3/8"
-a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer
-A torque wrench
-15/16" box end wrench for the drain plug. Sockets make it complicated.
-A breaker bar
-a 3/8" universal joint for your ratchet COMES IN HUGE
-And of course the regular complement of box end and opened wrenches and sockets.
-A pry bar to advance the clutch diaphragm as you loosen your bolts.
-clutch fluid (you might as well flush it)
-stainless steel clutch cable, if your going to a stiffer diaphragm this is always a good idea.
-2 jacks
-New Pilot and throw out bushing as well as the snap rings and washers involved with the throw out assebmly.
-you will need a machine shop to do some pressing on your throw out assembly and to machine your flywheel unless you replace it with a competition model, but that will affect your fuel efficency.

A few tips:

1. For pete's sake when you jack the car up do it on level ground and with the E-BRAKE ON! if you make your own wheel blocks(i made mine from 6x6 blocks cut and stacked to a nice stable 12-18" lift) you can afford your self a few more inches of travel by placing the blocks under the tires instead of on the frame. You'll need that extra space when its time to get the tranny out from under the car, otherwise it gets stuck at the frame.

2. Be ready to fight with your exhaust bolts, if you want to minimize the battle you can just DC the ones at the elbow and drop the pipe as a unit if you have 1 friend who can help you. the elbow bolts are two different sizes.

3. the best way to get at the starter bolts is as straight as you can from the rear using your extensionsand uni fitting. you can unbolt the tranny crossmember and use the weight of the tranny hanging to bend down the engine a bit but too far can be bad for your motor mounts. This little bend will give you some space to get at the bolts better. use the same approach of multiple extensions and uni fitting. This is where it gets easy to strip heads so make good contact. and the starter will need a wrench on its forward side to counter the turning forces of you working from the rear with the extensions, it is nut and bolt assembly, not just bolt.

4. Initially remove the tranny cross member at the frame. When reinstalling dissassemble it so your putting up just the tranny with the rubber mount block on the bottom of it. its easier to get the input shaft to line up with pilot bearing.

5. remember to loosen your diaphragm bolts a little at a time going from one to the next. otherwise things will get trick. Turn the bolt a bit, then turn the diaphragm and turn another bolt a little. tighten it the same way will you reach the proper pounds. Easiest way to tighten adn loosen the diaphragm bolts is through the clutch slave cylinder hole since you'll have it removed.

6. be sure to remove all the wires and hoses and cables on the tranny, back up, ABS, speedo, ground, and clutch.

7. Use a little piece of emery tape to sand your input shaft if your pilot bearing doesn't fit smoothly. try to fit the new pilot on once the tranny is out of the car. this will save you alot of frustration later when installing the tranny. and be sure to drift the pilot bearing back in STRAIGHT. I think a 15/16" socket is the perfect size, but it might ahave been 1 1/16". Can't remember for sure.

8. Moly lube all the spots your supposed to, very important. and put a little extra in the inner diameter of the throw out assembly to keep things moving along nicely.

9. Remember installation is slow and tedious. In a little, up a little, in a little, up a little. Nice smooth contact with the pilot bearing will keep you from smashing the bearing and having to fight to put it in first gear till you replace the pilot again.

10. don't drop bolts down into the subframe when your putting the shift tower back on, you'll never find them again.

11. Fill the tranny will oil once its back in the car and on level ground. Do this from the inside with the tower removed. Poor till you see a little come out of the fill level hole and then let it run out till ITS DONE. If you put the bolt back in the hole it will leak like a sieve from the output seal till its leaked to its proper level.

12. if you can't reach the top bolt out of the four on the drive shaft because its too close to the body get out from under the car, jack it up at the rear diff, and turn the wheels till you can see the bolt come around. Don't pinch your fingers in the articulating parts of the shaft, its not as fun as it sounds.

13. PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE CLUTCH PLATE IS ORIETNED BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT. The sorrow and rage you will feel after you have reinstalled and reassembled everything when you realize the clutch doesn't work because you put the plate in backwards will be on par with your girlfriend cheating on you, then throwing your dog into traffic where it gets hit by a mac truck and then catches on fire. really, its not possible to emphasize this enough. In fact to save you from this disaster, i am telling you "the side with the elevated center portion with the springs in it, that is the side that IS NOT level (omiting he shaft sleve in the very center) faces to the rear. THE SIDE THAT IS LEVEL FACES TO THE FLY WHEEL, FORWARD.

Thats all the comes to me right now... hope it helps. If you have any "?"s during the job or before or after you can PM me. Good luck.

Edit: you do not need to do anything to the engine to remove the tranny. and most clutch kits are the 4s for a decent stage 3, the cheapest pro there is.

11-28-2005, 06:13 AM	#8
Burn N' Up 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 238	Self proclaimed master of thy tranny Ok skunk, here is the deal... I have dropped my Supra R154 tranny a bunch of times no problem but there are a few tricks. The best clutch kits for the price are on Ebay BTW. You should have: -at least 24 preferrably 36 inches of extensions in size 3/8" -a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer -A torque wrench -15/16" box end wrench for the drain plug. Sockets make it complicated. -A breaker bar -a 3/8" universal joint for your ratchet COMES IN HUGE -And of course the regular complement of box end and opened wrenches and sockets. -A pry bar to advance the clutch diaphragm as you loosen your bolts. -clutch fluid (you might as well flush it) -stainless steel clutch cable, if your going to a stiffer diaphragm this is always a good idea. -2 jacks -New Pilot and throw out bushing as well as the snap rings and washers involved with the throw out assebmly. -you will need a machine shop to do some pressing on your throw out assembly and to machine your flywheel unless you replace it with a competition model, but that will affect your fuel efficency. A few tips: 1. For pete's sake when you jack the car up do it on level ground and with the E-BRAKE ON! if you make your own wheel blocks(i made mine from 6x6 blocks cut and stacked to a nice stable 12-18" lift) you can afford your self a few more inches of travel by placing the blocks under the tires instead of on the frame. You'll need that extra space when its time to get the tranny out from under the car, otherwise it gets stuck at the frame. 2. Be ready to fight with your exhaust bolts, if you want to minimize the battle you can just DC the ones at the elbow and drop the pipe as a unit if you have 1 friend who can help you. the elbow bolts are two different sizes. 3. the best way to get at the starter bolts is as straight as you can from the rear using your extensionsand uni fitting. you can unbolt the tranny crossmember and use the weight of the tranny hanging to bend down the engine a bit but too far can be bad for your motor mounts. This little bend will give you some space to get at the bolts better. use the same approach of multiple extensions and uni fitting. This is where it gets easy to strip heads so make good contact. and the starter will need a wrench on its forward side to counter the turning forces of you working from the rear with the extensions, it is nut and bolt assembly, not just bolt. 4. Initially remove the tranny cross member at the frame. When reinstalling dissassemble it so your putting up just the tranny with the rubber mount block on the bottom of it. its easier to get the input shaft to line up with pilot bearing. 5. remember to loosen your diaphragm bolts a little at a time going from one to the next. otherwise things will get trick. Turn the bolt a bit, then turn the diaphragm and turn another bolt a little. tighten it the same way will you reach the proper pounds. Easiest way to tighten adn loosen the diaphragm bolts is through the clutch slave cylinder hole since you'll have it removed. 6. be sure to remove all the wires and hoses and cables on the tranny, back up, ABS, speedo, ground, and clutch. 7. Use a little piece of emery tape to sand your input shaft if your pilot bearing doesn't fit smoothly. try to fit the new pilot on once the tranny is out of the car. this will save you alot of frustration later when installing the tranny. and be sure to drift the pilot bearing back in STRAIGHT. I think a 15/16" socket is the perfect size, but it might ahave been 1 1/16". Can't remember for sure. 8. Moly lube all the spots your supposed to, very important. and put a little extra in the inner diameter of the throw out assembly to keep things moving along nicely. 9. Remember installation is slow and tedious. In a little, up a little, in a little, up a little. Nice smooth contact with the pilot bearing will keep you from smashing the bearing and having to fight to put it in first gear till you replace the pilot again. 10. don't drop bolts down into the subframe when your putting the shift tower back on, you'll never find them again. 11. Fill the tranny will oil once its back in the car and on level ground. Do this from the inside with the tower removed. Poor till you see a little come out of the fill level hole and then let it run out till ITS DONE. If you put the bolt back in the hole it will leak like a sieve from the output seal till its leaked to its proper level. 12. if you can't reach the top bolt out of the four on the drive shaft because its too close to the body get out from under the car, jack it up at the rear diff, and turn the wheels till you can see the bolt come around. Don't pinch your fingers in the articulating parts of the shaft, its not as fun as it sounds. 13. PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE CLUTCH PLATE IS ORIETNED BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT. The sorrow and rage you will feel after you have reinstalled and reassembled everything when you realize the clutch doesn't work because you put the plate in backwards will be on par with your girlfriend cheating on you, then throwing your dog into traffic where it gets hit by a mac truck and then catches on fire. really, its not possible to emphasize this enough. In fact to save you from this disaster, i am telling you "the side with the elevated center portion with the springs in it, that is the side that IS NOT level (omiting he shaft sleve in the very center) faces to the rear. THE SIDE THAT IS LEVEL FACES TO THE FLY WHEEL, FORWARD. Thats all the comes to me right now... hope it helps. If you have any "?"s during the job or before or after you can PM me. Good luck. Edit: you do not need to do anything to the engine to remove the tranny. and most clutch kits are the 4s for a decent stage 3, the cheapest pro there is.