IF the turbo block didn't receive any internal damage then I would just go with that package, car and all. Pull the engine and take it apart. If you aren't qualified to make sure that engine is sound enough for a rebuild then let a shop make that determination. If a rod broke, then to me that means it probably spun a bearing and got hot and snapped the rod. Usually the broken part or parts cause the damage from beating around, like a hole or cracked block. If the block is salvagable then get it rebuilt or have the machine shop machine the parts and rebuild it yourself.
Get ARP rod bolts and unless the cylinders are new or almost new, get it bored and deck the block and mill the head some to make sure they are perfectly flat, then DEFINATELY go with a metal head gasket and ARP head studs. With those things done you can make some serious and reliable horsepower.
Check out both heads. See which one has the best looking water jackets/pockets under the head. They are both the same except the cam profiles are a little different. Also look at the cam journals and see which one has the best looking journals. This is a weak spot as far as having cam journals that are clean and having a cam bearing surface that is not etched. If they are both good then go with the turbo. If the N/A is better then swap the cams and use it.
I know there is more but go with these things for a starter.
Russ
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