"Just take the safc out"
Yea ok. Too bad its soldered into the ecu harness. They dont sell a patch harness for a supra. Trust me Ive looked.
Im not surprised it feels slower at higher boost levels (20 in your case) Ive seen writeups where at the current state of tune, the motor hits a sweet spot, a level of boost where it is maximizing the efficiency of the engine. Any more boost and power falls off, why? Probably because its getting too hot and running lean at 20psi but thats purely speculation at this point.
I still stick to my theory, get a new afc or get your password and put it on a dyno with someone who has had experience tuning AFC's. You'd be surprized how much you can fuckup your car with it being set incorrectly. The AFC is there for a reason, do NOT take it out that would be a hack move.
Usually in my case the tuner is the owner of the car so there is no need to lock the AFC. So Im speculating that who ever set the password tuned the car, meaning not your Father. Have you asked him who did the work or did he receive the car in this state? There is a lithium battery backup so you dont have to always set it after disconnecting the car battery but im not sure if its removable.
Yes manual boost controllers are the only way to go (in my opinion) Old skool bra.... Thats why I didnt know what it is I dont pay attention to electronic bullshit. Thats for lazy ass i dont know how to set a manual boost controller mofukas.
Get that wideband in there, that will help tremendously for tuning.
Like she said (if you havent already) run diag on the engine, and check/set the timing. Its really not hard, you just have to disable the electronic advance at the diagnostic port. If you need to know how just ask.
And by the way, yea that turbo is f'n huge compared to the wimpy CT26 stocker.
Last edited by IHateHacks; 07-06-2006 at 02:56 PM.
|