To check the codes you must jumper terminals E1 and TE1 at the diagnostic connector (behind the battery). Then turn the igniton on but do not start it and watch the check engine light flash. Count how many times it flashes then pauses and flashes again and you will have your trouble code(s). If it just flashes 4 times a second you have no codes.
Usually when an engine won't start when hot it's ignition related. Here's what I'd do-
First you will need a multi-meter. It's a tool to measure resistance, voltage, and amperage.
Drive the car till its warm and go somewhere to work on it. Measure the resistance of each spark plug wire. Maximum resistance is 25,000 Ohms per wire or 25K Ohms.
If that is ok next will be to inspect the power source to each coil pack. With the ignition in the on position and the plug wire disconnected from the coil, disconnect the connectors at the coils and measure the voltage between terminal 2 and ground (terminal 2 is the one farthest from the connector release clip). You should have approximately 12V at all three coils.
If that is ok then you can inspect the primary coil resistance. Between terminals 1 and 2 of the coil itself there should be between .3-.6 ohms of resistance.
If that is ok then you can inspect the ignition coil ground by using the ohmmeter and making sure there is no continuity between the coil terminal 2 and ground.
If any of these tests fail, that coil is bad or there is a problem with the wiring harness (if there's not 12V present).
If all of these tests check out ok you can test the igniter and the cam position sensor. But I think thats enough to get you started, if you want info on how to test the igniter or cam sensor just let me know.
Last edited by IHateHacks; 01-07-2007 at 04:47 PM.
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