Tie Rods & Ball Joints

mrnickleye · 03-10-2007, 04:50 AM

I was hearing a little clicking/clunking going over railroad tracks, and light street bumps.

I checked my ball joints per the TSRM.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=FA&Page=21

Both were real loose. 174k miles on them.

There are no grease zerks in the factory joints, so they actually will only be good for about 150k miles at best.

I read the TSRM removal method, but I said...NOT the WAY.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=FA&Page=22

So here is the Sooooo....Easy.... Way. It took 1 hr. per side.

I did this alone. And any $$$ you spend on tools, is $$$ saved.

NOTE: Mine were still original joints, so if yours are not, you will adjust this proceedure to the nut sizes on your car.

TOOLS:

-Air Hammer w/Ball Joint Pickle Fork (For speed, but not really necessary)

-Ball Joint Pickle Fork (hand held) and Large Hammer
(if you don't have Air Hammer)

-1/2" impact gun (For speed, but not really necessary)

-1/2" breaker bar (if you don't have impact gun and air)

-1/2" down to 3/8" adaptor (impact black is stronger than chrome)

-Ft-Lbs Torque wrench (if you don't use it, don't tighten the nuts so hard as to break them)

-19mm x 3/8"dr socket

-3/8"dr x 6" extension

-19mm x 3/8"dr deep socket, chrome (3/4" is same size)

-22mm x 3/8"dr deep socket, chrome (7/8" is same size)
-3/8"dr ratchet

-3/8" combo wrench

-Pliers (6-8" channel locks are best)

-22mm combination wrench (7/8" is same size)

-19mm (or larger) combination wrench

-Medium size screwdriver (for cotter pin bending)

-Jack and 2 stands

-2ft rope

................................................

STEPS TO DO THE WORK

1. Set the parking brake, Jack up entire front of car so wheels hang free, and use 2 stands for safety. (I once knew a guy that died....)

2. Remove left tire

3. Turn hub left or right as need for access

4. Using pliers, remove the wire retainer clip on the ball joint upper nut

5. Using pliers, remove (slide off) the flat, metal clip that holds the brake line to the bracket on the hub

6. Using the 22mm combo wrench, and the other large combo wrench, loosen and remove the upper nut

NOTE: This is tricky, as you will need to place the 22mm box end on the nut, and the box end of the other wrench onto the open end of the 22mm wrench, in a way so as to make an extension, so the wrenches are longer and locked together, so you can place more torque on the nut (as it is very very tight).

If I had a camera, I could photo the wrench setup. Perhaps someone will do it and post it.

The brake line is in the way, but you MIGHT be able to use the breakerbar and socket.

7. Using the pickle fork (air hammer or hand held w/hammer), place the fork on the ball joint stud between the hub/steering knuckle and rubber boot, and then hammer it in to cause the tapered stud to seperate from the hub/steering knuckle
(It will sorta just POP loose) Don't be afraid to really smack it !!

8. Lift the rotor/hub assy up and off the ball joint stud, and tie it to the spring with a rope

9. Using Impact gun (or ratchet or breaker bar) and 19mm reg. socket w/6" extension, remove the nut that holds the shock to the lower suspension arm

10. Pull out the bolt, and let shock hang there

11. Using Impact gun (or ratchet or breaker bar) and 19mm deep socket, remove 3 nuts holding the ball joint to the lower suspension arm

12. Pull out the double bolt set, and the single bolt from the lower suspension arm, (you will need to wiggle the ball joint to get them out)

13. Remove the ball joint

14. Insert the new ball joint (make sure the new rubber boot is on it first), and install the double bolt set, and the single bolt into the lower suspension arm, and the ball joint holes

15. Start the new nuts, but only finger tight (leave it loose)

16. Remove rope and set the hub down onto the upper ball joint stud in its proper place (in the hole, dummy

) You will wiggle ball joint to get it into position

17. Install new castle nut finger TIGHT

18. Tighten the 3 nuts in lower suspension arm (94 ft-lbs)

19. Now tighten the upper nut (92 ft-lbs). This may be difficult due to interference of the brake line. (I used the same 2 wrenches again, and tightened the hell outa them, until the hole lines up for the new cotter pin)

20. Install the new cotter pin (make sure it won't hit the brake line)

21. Re-install the brake line clip

22. Re-install the bolt and nut into the shock, and don't tighten the nut fully yet. (You will tighten this, and the right side one, LAST, with wheels on the ground)

23. Install the zerk fitting into the new ball joint, and add 3-4 squirts of grease. (Everyone that works on cars MUST have a small, one handed grease gun).

24. Re-install tire

25. Perform Above Steps To Right Side.

26. Lower car to ground

27. Tighten left and right lower shock mount nuts now
(106 ft-lbs) DON'T FORGET THIS STEP !!!!!!!
.................................................. ..

You may (likely) need a wheel alignment after this.

I recommend making sure all the other knuckles and bushings and joints are in good condition before spending $$$ on alignment.
.................................................. .....

I booked this out (Mitchell Labor Guide, and List price for parts) for retail, and if you came to my shop, it would cost you $487.33 for both sides.

Here is the ones I used, from Carquest, made by Moog (been making front end parts since forever).

LOWER BALL JOINT
87-92 CCH K9521
List $105.40 Wholesale $52.70

03-10-2007, 04:50 AM	#2
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	Changing Lower Ball Joints I was hearing a little clicking/clunking going over railroad tracks, and light street bumps. I checked my ball joints per the TSRM. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=FA&Page=21 Both were real loose. 174k miles on them. There are no grease zerks in the factory joints, so they actually will only be good for about 150k miles at best. I read the TSRM removal method, but I said...NOT the WAY. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=FA&Page=22 So here is the Sooooo....Easy.... Way. It took 1 hr. per side. I did this alone. And any $$$ you spend on tools, is $$$ saved. NOTE: Mine were still original joints, so if yours are not, you will adjust this proceedure to the nut sizes on your car. TOOLS: -Air Hammer w/Ball Joint Pickle Fork (For speed, but not really necessary) -Ball Joint Pickle Fork (hand held) and Large Hammer (if you don't have Air Hammer) -1/2" impact gun (For speed, but not really necessary) -1/2" breaker bar (if you don't have impact gun and air) -1/2" down to 3/8" adaptor (impact black is stronger than chrome) -Ft-Lbs Torque wrench (if you don't use it, don't tighten the nuts so hard as to break them) -19mm x 3/8"dr socket -3/8"dr x 6" extension -19mm x 3/8"dr deep socket, chrome (3/4" is same size) -22mm x 3/8"dr deep socket, chrome (7/8" is same size) -3/8"dr ratchet -3/8" combo wrench -Pliers (6-8" channel locks are best) -22mm combination wrench (7/8" is same size) -19mm (or larger) combination wrench -Medium size screwdriver (for cotter pin bending) -Jack and 2 stands -2ft rope ................................................ STEPS TO DO THE WORK 1. Set the parking brake, Jack up entire front of car so wheels hang free, and use 2 stands for safety. (I once knew a guy that died....) 2. Remove left tire 3. Turn hub left or right as need for access 4. Using pliers, remove the wire retainer clip on the ball joint upper nut 5. Using pliers, remove (slide off) the flat, metal clip that holds the brake line to the bracket on the hub 6. Using the 22mm combo wrench, and the other large combo wrench, loosen and remove the upper nut NOTE: This is tricky, as you will need to place the 22mm box end on the nut, and the box end of the other wrench onto the open end of the 22mm wrench, in a way so as to make an extension, so the wrenches are longer and locked together, so you can place more torque on the nut (as it is very very tight). If I had a camera, I could photo the wrench setup. Perhaps someone will do it and post it. The brake line is in the way, but you MIGHT be able to use the breakerbar and socket. 7. Using the pickle fork (air hammer or hand held w/hammer), place the fork on the ball joint stud between the hub/steering knuckle and rubber boot, and then hammer it in to cause the tapered stud to seperate from the hub/steering knuckle (It will sorta just POP loose) Don't be afraid to really smack it !! 8. Lift the rotor/hub assy up and off the ball joint stud, and tie it to the spring with a rope 9. Using Impact gun (or ratchet or breaker bar) and 19mm reg. socket w/6" extension, remove the nut that holds the shock to the lower suspension arm 10. Pull out the bolt, and let shock hang there 11. Using Impact gun (or ratchet or breaker bar) and 19mm deep socket, remove 3 nuts holding the ball joint to the lower suspension arm 12. Pull out the double bolt set, and the single bolt from the lower suspension arm, (you will need to wiggle the ball joint to get them out) 13. Remove the ball joint 14. Insert the new ball joint (make sure the new rubber boot is on it first), and install the double bolt set, and the single bolt into the lower suspension arm, and the ball joint holes 15. Start the new nuts, but only finger tight (leave it loose) 16. Remove rope and set the hub down onto the upper ball joint stud in its proper place (in the hole, dummy ) You will wiggle ball joint to get it into position 17. Install new castle nut finger TIGHT 18. Tighten the 3 nuts in lower suspension arm (94 ft-lbs) 19. Now tighten the upper nut (92 ft-lbs). This may be difficult due to interference of the brake line. (I used the same 2 wrenches again, and tightened the hell outa them, until the hole lines up for the new cotter pin) 20. Install the new cotter pin (make sure it won't hit the brake line) 21. Re-install the brake line clip 22. Re-install the bolt and nut into the shock, and don't tighten the nut fully yet. (You will tighten this, and the right side one, LAST, with wheels on the ground) 23. Install the zerk fitting into the new ball joint, and add 3-4 squirts of grease. (Everyone that works on cars MUST have a small, one handed grease gun). 24. Re-install tire 25. Perform Above Steps To Right Side. 26. Lower car to ground 27. Tighten left and right lower shock mount nuts now (106 ft-lbs) DON'T FORGET THIS STEP !!!!!!! .................................................. .. You may (likely) need a wheel alignment after this. I recommend making sure all the other knuckles and bushings and joints are in good condition before spending $$$ on alignment. .................................................. ..... I booked this out (Mitchell Labor Guide, and List price for parts) for retail, and if you came to my shop, it would cost you $487.33 for both sides. Here is the ones I used, from Carquest, made by Moog (been making front end parts since forever). LOWER BALL JOINT 87-92 CCH K9521 List $105.40 Wholesale $52.70 Attached Thumbnails __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. Last edited by mrnickleye; 03-10-2007 at 06:39 PM.