[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...I am looking to get a TT 6speed MKIV Supra...I will be keeping the car stock (or with whatever upgrades may come with it) for a while. I will slowly upgrade it but I am very young so money is a big issue. I just want a fast, sexy daily driver not a full race car. I want to be able to do weekend drag racing...

Note that an auto is better for drag racing (i.e. not a 6speed).

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...and maybe even autoX...

Although you'd have fun autoX'ing your Mkiv TT, unfortunately this is one area that you probably won't run competitive times. The Mkiv is a relatively large, relatively heavy, GT roadracer. Smaller, lighter cars tend to dominate in autoX. If it's at all possible, I'd suggest you lean towards roadracing instead of autoX.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...What do I look for when buying a supra?!...

A vehicle that has been well-maintained, with written records to help prove it. I'd also recommend you do a compression test, and have it test-driven by someone that is extremely familiar with the Mkiv TT.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...any rust spots...

Generally no, but the edge around the hatch should be double-checked.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...any engine components that break or need replacing a lot?...

Not really, but this heavily depends on mileage, maintenance, and modifications. Too much boost on pump gas can damage the pistons (which is why I suggested a compression check). The oem crank pulley can separate in Mkiv's > 125K miles, but you won't need to worry about this as part of your inspection because it either won't run properly or it's not a problem. Also, the oem coilpacks can weaken > 100K miles, but this may not be an issue if it's still running oem boost levels. This is another item that pretty much either works or it doesn't, at the boost level it's set to.

Several other items, such as cooling system components can fail, if the Supra was not well maintained.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Also I am wondering what a decent price is for a TT, 6-speed I will look at any years above 93 but most likely years 95+ because I will only get a car with less then 50k miles. Condition is also very important too me I will pay more for quality but I don't want to get ripped off...

For the vehicle you described, you'll almost certainly need to pay $25K USD or more. You'll also very likely spend at least eight weeks searching nationwide, and you may have to fly to more than one city (with cash-in-hand) to end up getting the car you want. (Yes, really: cash-in-hand).

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...I have a few questions about what to do with my Supra. I was thinking of a single conversion because it seems cheaper then upgrading the TT...

Not only is it cheaper, it's something other than impossible. In other words, there's no such thing as an off-the-shelf sequential tt upgrade. The product simply doesn't exist. If you mean to convert to parallel twins (i.e. TTC), then yep, single is cheaper than parallel tt.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Is a BPU a good idea or is it better to peice together a single turbo setup...

Bpu is a good idea, but the oem twins limit you to about 475rwhp at most, on race fuel and high boost. Also, 475rwhp is not a typical bpu result. Typically, bpu++++ Mkivs make from 375rwhp to 425rwhp on high boost and race fuel, and about 350rwhp on pump gas. If you want to make more power than that, you'll need to dump the oem twins, and put on an aftermarket turbo kit.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Also what is a good BPU or "parts" to get about 400whp and still be able to go over that easily...

A GReddy BCC, a downpipe, and a simple hose clamp can get you to about 375rwhp (6spd), with race fuel. To get that up to 400rwhp with race fuel, you may have to add a fuel controller, intake, cam gears, fmic, an aftermarket bov (eg. HKS SS), and an exhaust (again, with high boost & race fuel).

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...How far can you push the stock block...

About 850rwhp, reliably for long-term/repeated runs, using race fuel, when properly tuned. Absolute max/peak is about 1100rwhp, using race fuel.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...and fuel system?...

550rwhp through a 6spd, absolute bleeding-edge max, with everything in perfect running order. If you've got 100K+ miles on the fuel pump and injectors, max is probably 500rwhp or less.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Also I am wondering what top mph a stock or slightly modified Supra is goverend too I am assuming around 150mph?...

155mph.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...What do you have to do to by-pass the speed governer...

On the US-spec Mkiv TT, simply pull the 'trac' fuse.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...How important is a upgraded ecu and tuning?...

This totally depends on your modifications & rwhp. At bpu, it's not that important. For 600rwhp+, tuning and ecu modifications are absolutely critical.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...does every small upgrade require tuning?...

Not at 'bpu' level...but beyond that, probably yes.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...What is better a stand alone or a piggyback or does it even matter?...

It doesn't matter for bpu. For about 400rwhp-750rwhp imho piggybacks are equally effective and less expensive overall. For about 750rwhp+, you'll need a standalone to optimize your horsepower gains.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Also I have a few questions about modifing the supra. What is a good start too upgrading a stock Supra? Intake?...

No, you don't need to change out the oem intake for 'bpu'. This isn't a honduh.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...boost controller?...

No, a boost controller isn't absolutely necessary, unless you want to be able to change the max boost level from inside the cockpit. You can raise the boost using a $0.10 hose clamp, as long as you've already installed your GReddy BCC to prevent fuel cut.

Also, don't forget to increase your octane with race fuel when you increase your boost, or (like I said above) your pistons will get damaged. Note that the damage doesn't happen instantly, because the oem ecu tries to retard timing when it detects detonation, but this doesn't always happen fast enough. Damage over time is guaranteed if you repeatedly run high boost on pump gas.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...exhaust?...

Not for 'bpu', although most guys change it anyway because they like 'the look' of that big chrome exhaust tip. You won't see any performance benefit to installing an exhaust until bpu++++.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Last but not least what all will I need to get 400rwhp?...

Although I pretty much answered this already above, I'll repeat it here again: to be guaranteed to make 400rwhp, you'll need to go full bpu++++, which means a GReddy BCC, a downpipe, and a simple hose clamp, race fuel, fuel controller, intake, cam gears, fmic, an aftermarket bov (eg. HKS SS), and an exhaust.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...will 91octane still be able to be used at these HP levels?...

No, not reliably, with the oem ecu controlling the timing.

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...Also I want to aquire around 400whp but still have room to boost it up in the future. So what do I need? Turbo? Fuel? Internals? Piping? etc...

I can't answer this question without knowing the absolute max rwhp you want to achieve when you "boost it up in the future".

Originally Posted by WhisPer

...I was thinking of just saving for a decent BPU with a few supporting mods, is this the best route for me to go for what I want, or is there other paths to take?

It all depends how much $ you have to spend, what you ultimately want to achieve in terms of rwhp, and whether or not you will be paying someone else do do the modificaitons to your Supra. Generally, if you can afford it up front, your cheapest overall route is to buy a Supra that's already been modified to 750rwhp, for example, if that's what you ultimately want.