alright dude. I found this out the scenic way.
Your arp washers have to be installed after setting the head onto the HG.
Because if you set it on the studs and try to install them....., there is no clearance for washers.
So even after dropping the head you still have to remove what studs you have installed to place the washers.
You don't need any studs in the block. The placement pins will catch the head and line it up.
So..., then you install the washers. Now you won't have room to place the nuts on the studs so you thread them and then drop them through the washers. Then hand tighten them with your allen wrench. My studs didn't come with the allen wrench but I have plenty so no big deal.
After you have the studs "finger" tight. Use your deep welled 14mm socket and an extention and tighten the nuts to finger tight. No wratchet. Do it by hand.
Now you are ready for the torque wrench. Follow the bolt pattern in your tsrm. Everyone says to do it in 3 stages of torquing. I did mine in 5 stages and went to 85lbs. ARP says to go to 80 lbs.
Whatever you do..., DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE MOLLY. On the tops and bottom of the studs. A little bit of molly goes a long way.
You will find that the #10 stud is tight even after rotating the cam to the flat spot. If your socket hangs up...., remove the wratchet and wiggle the socket with the extention attached, and they will come loose.
I just did mine over the weekend. This is the easiest way IMO. Take your time. Don't rush the torquing process. I also kept my allen wrench and moved it one spot behind me as I moved forward. Because if you have to leave it for some reason or look up for too long. You'll be lost.
Don't stop torquing half way through a cycle. After all 14 are tight..., take a break. Give them a few minutes to acclimate, smoke a joint or wack off, whatever floats your boat and then go back and repeat the process.
Kidding about the joint and slapping the ham there. lol.
These are just opinions and there is a reason they are free.
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