Turbo Kit for 87 Supra

cre · 05-20-2007, 09:55 AM

To the best of my knowledge there are still no complete turbo kits intended for the N/A-T conversion. MVPMotorsports and 935Motorsports offer kits which contain the frquired plumbing and weld on bung, which needs to be welded into the oil pan for the turbo's oil drain. You still need a fuel computer, injectors, turbo, manifold and so on. Some of the turbo upgrade kits have the manifold, turbo, bov and plumbing, but the oil return hose won't reach the oil pan and the stock oil drain location isn't drilled and tapped on the GE block.

It's argued that converting to a GTE engine from a donor car is cheaper... Whether it's any cheaper depends on whether you buy a donor car or have to buy everything seperately. It also depends on whether the GTE engine needs to be rebuilt.

I decided that in my case, I know precisely what needs repaired on my engine and it's a better bet. This is something you'll need to decide for yourself.

As for upgrading the GE, there are a number of options. Just doing one or two of them won't really gain you anything, doing most of them will make the car more responsive, but you'll probably still be left wanting more power.

Port and polish intake and head

Install a good set of headers

Upgraded exhaust 2.5" is the most popular, 3" isn't too uncommon

Advance the ignition timing

Install and tune adjustable cam gears

Convert to a less restrictive aif flow meter system (MAFT Pro is the only option currently compatible with the 7M-GE electronics, but it'll allow you to either convert to an inexpensive and large GM MAF or ditch the meter all together and run speed/density)

Weight reduction... our cars weight a TON, removing unneeded accessories can help lighten the load, making what power you do have more appreciable.

Capacitive ignition, such as the MSD Blaster coil. Helps ensure you're getting the biggest bang your air/fuel mixture is capable of.

Performance ignition wires, such as MSD, NGK or Taylor wires. Again this helps ensure you're burning clean.

Removing carbon deposits from the tops of your pistons (recommended if you're doing the head gasket), while this actually lowers compression it also ensures a more even progression, or smoother running engine as the difference in power from one cylinder to the next is closer to equal. Generally the car will run much smoother at the higher RPMs (where the N/A really makes its power).

Make sure your electrical system is up to spec. Replace old ground wires, power wires, rebuild the alternator, test the ignition coil, replace the distributor cap and rotor.... and so on.

Replace all your vacuum lines and test all your VSVs. One problem I've seen on a lot of N/As is that the VSV for the ACIS will fail and the owner, not having ever driven the car when it worked, doesn't realize that things are supposed to really open up at 3800RPM and not just level out.

You could go as far as looking into a NOS setup. If you do make sure your engine can take it.

Lastly, if you find yourself undecided, start with the small stuff from the above list. Electrical, vacuum lines, timing.. then focus on the other essentials for a powerful car: suspension and brakes.

05-20-2007, 09:55 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	To the best of my knowledge there are still no complete turbo kits intended for the N/A-T conversion. MVPMotorsports and 935Motorsports offer kits which contain the frquired plumbing and weld on bung, which needs to be welded into the oil pan for the turbo's oil drain. You still need a fuel computer, injectors, turbo, manifold and so on. Some of the turbo upgrade kits have the manifold, turbo, bov and plumbing, but the oil return hose won't reach the oil pan and the stock oil drain location isn't drilled and tapped on the GE block. It's argued that converting to a GTE engine from a donor car is cheaper... Whether it's any cheaper depends on whether you buy a donor car or have to buy everything seperately. It also depends on whether the GTE engine needs to be rebuilt. I decided that in my case, I know precisely what needs repaired on my engine and it's a better bet. This is something you'll need to decide for yourself. As for upgrading the GE, there are a number of options. Just doing one or two of them won't really gain you anything, doing most of them will make the car more responsive, but you'll probably still be left wanting more power. Port and polish intake and head Install a good set of headers Upgraded exhaust 2.5" is the most popular, 3" isn't too uncommon Advance the ignition timing Install and tune adjustable cam gears Convert to a less restrictive aif flow meter system (MAFT Pro is the only option currently compatible with the 7M-GE electronics, but it'll allow you to either convert to an inexpensive and large GM MAF or ditch the meter all together and run speed/density) Weight reduction... our cars weight a TON, removing unneeded accessories can help lighten the load, making what power you do have more appreciable. Capacitive ignition, such as the MSD Blaster coil. Helps ensure you're getting the biggest bang your air/fuel mixture is capable of. Performance ignition wires, such as MSD, NGK or Taylor wires. Again this helps ensure you're burning clean. Removing carbon deposits from the tops of your pistons (recommended if you're doing the head gasket), while this actually lowers compression it also ensures a more even progression, or smoother running engine as the difference in power from one cylinder to the next is closer to equal. Generally the car will run much smoother at the higher RPMs (where the N/A really makes its power). Make sure your electrical system is up to spec. Replace old ground wires, power wires, rebuild the alternator, test the ignition coil, replace the distributor cap and rotor.... and so on. Replace all your vacuum lines and test all your VSVs. One problem I've seen on a lot of N/As is that the VSV for the ACIS will fail and the owner, not having ever driven the car when it worked, doesn't realize that things are supposed to really open up at 3800RPM and not just level out. You could go as far as looking into a NOS setup. If you do make sure your engine can take it. Lastly, if you find yourself undecided, start with the small stuff from the above list. Electrical, vacuum lines, timing.. then focus on the other essentials for a powerful car: suspension and brakes.