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Originally Posted by more power...
...compression test Passed...
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Please provide more info. What were the specific numbers for each cylinder?
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Originally Posted by more power...
...leak down test=13% leakage...
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Which cylinder has 13% leakage?
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Originally Posted by more power...
...and i dont have the maintanance records...
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I'd strongly recommend changing all fluids - each fluid has very specific recommendations - and inspecting everything top to bottom.
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Originally Posted by more power...
...and umm when i went today i found a stainless steel downpipe TITAN, i didnt get it yet but 320$ and like 16-17 lbs or summin, what do you recon??
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I'm sorry I don't quite understand your question. A downpipe will allow you to get to 'bpu' level with the oem twin turbos. This will allow you to run anywhere from oem boost all the way through 26psi. It's the boost controller (not the downpipe) that determines your boost level.
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Originally Posted by more power...
i also saw a Racing Suction Intake HKS that they had, you think i should go for it? he said 500$ (or in qatar's currency, 1800QR), is it useful at this point? because there are only 3 pieces left and it will fit a my TT
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NO intake required for bpu. Like I said, post here with any (potentially bad) advice. The oem cold-air intake provides everything you need for bpu. In other words, you won't pick up any hp from that intake at bpu level.
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Originally Posted by more power...
i think i want to go for a lower hp actually because i recon i still need to drive this car. or could i drive it on normal fuel at the hp intended?(safely)
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What you ask here is a VERY complicated question. First of all, I don't know what "normal fuel" is in your city. Can you get 93 octane fuel, as rated using this formula (R+M)/2? Also, is 100 octane fuel available? If you don't have 100 octane fuel available, you can always use methanol injection together with 93 octane fuel, and still produce about 550rwhp or so with reliability.
Overall I agree with the implication of your question: the more you upgrade your car, and the more rwhp you expect from it, the less reliable it will be as a daily driver. I'm aware of bone-stock Mkiv Supras with 250K miles. If you upgrade to 680rwhp, don't expect anywhere near that before you'd need to do some work to it. -BUT- You can easily get to bpu level, and still have an extremely high degree of reliability. At bpu (about 400rwhp), the reliability is still very good (almost as reliable as stock).
Note that if you upgrade to 680rwhp, and you don't run race fuel or methanol injection, its likely to live a
very short life. Even a fully race-built motor can be destroyed in a few seconds by detonation.