[btwilson86]

Ok, timing....

With the upper timing cover off, verify that when your engine is at TDC, both cam timing marks (yellow marks) line up with the marks on the plate behind them (raised lines that go straight up). These will line up every other time.

Once everything is aligned, remove your cam position sensor. At the end of the shaft of the cps, there is a little gear that can spin freely. On this gear is a little dimple (kind of looks like a rivet), line that up with the notch on the cps shaft (it's a little cut out in the teeth next to that gear). Being careful not to bump the cps out of alignment, install it back in the motor (keep in mind your engine should still be at TDC with the cam timing marks straight up).

You should be able to easily run the car at idle now (provided you only have a timing problem). Let it idle up to operating temp. Turn the car off.

In the diagnostic box, put a jumper wire between terminals TE1 and E1 (like checking a engine code). Connect an inductive timing light to the number 6 (not 1) coil wire, and the power leads to the battery. Start the car.

Shine the flashing timing light at the crank timing numbers. You should only be seeing the notch on the crank pulley line up with the 10 mark. If not, loosen and slowly rotate the cps (with the engine running) until they line up. Once set, and with the engine running, pull the jumper wire from the diagnostic box. Your timing should advance to at least 12 degrees BTDC. If so, turn the car off and tighten the cps down. Remove the timing light.

You're done! Timing is easy on these cars for 1 person to do. The only time it may be annoying is if you have to shif the cps at all. Having another set of eyes would be great for that part, but not needed.

Hope this little write-up helps you out.