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Old 11-07-2009, 05:20 PM   #10
MA70-3.0GT
12psi boost
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchaske View Post
Just got a 87 nonturbo, before that worked on american classics, but to test the alternator I would simply pull the negative battery connection while the car is running, if it dies out immediately the alternator is not providing the charge, the battery is, hope this helps!
Not to rubbish that idea as it's fine on older stuff without electronics (indeed I've started many older cars with a good battery before removing that one & putting the flat one back in to charge, whilst it's running), but as soon as you start doing that on vehicles with ECU's, EFI and other electronic circuits (and we all know the Japanese especially LOVE electronic goodies!), you run the risk of damaging any number of components from a coil right through to the main ECU by creating a voltage spike as you remove the battery lead. (the alternator's kicking out the current to run the car & charge the battery, all of a sudden the load of charging the battery disappears & in the split second before the regulator can catch up *Bang*, there goes all the electronics that were switched on at the time...)

Avoiding voltage spikes can also apply to jump starting from another car, always make sure you connect the neg/- lead to the dead car last & disconnect it first & never hook it to the battery - post on the dead vehicle, always to a good earth like an engine mount or piece of the block/head. Like I say, not rubbishing the idea & it's fine on older stuff, just not these...
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'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...

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