Careful... you have to have a PERFECT head and block deck for the HKS Stopper or it WILL blow! My recommendation would be the Cometic, still needs a VERY smooth surface but it is much more forgiving.
As for raising the compression ratio... it's a waste of money. There's almost no power to be had from it even if you bore it as far as is physically possible. Personally, I'd go for a lower CR and start working on a build which could support a turbo.... it's up to you though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cvbikeguy
(since they are f'ed up anyways). im really tring to make sure i dont miss any mods that i could be doing at this stage since everything is taken apart, i just wish i had more money. i think the MHG is good too in case i do the turbo conversion later. but im seeing keeping it N/A as a challenge. believe it or not when i first got the car i only wanted a turbo and to hear the BOV. lol
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I don't think you're planning this out as well as you think you are.... just because a MHG is reusable doesn't mean it will work fine on another engine... the other engine may need a thinner or thicker gasket.
If you're planning on turboing this engine you need to do research into mods which will benefit the forced induction setup. If you are looking to go for an all-motor build (no turbo, no supercharger, etc.) than you need to plan your mods accordingly there too... there aren't a whole lot of internal engine mods which work well in BOTH situations other than forged internals (but you still need to pick because you'll need different pistons for each application), head porting and valve job and (argueably) custom cams.... but in the best situation you buy cams depending on the build.
I do not recomment all-motor builds on the 7M-GE.... I know a few people who have spent an absolute fortune on their N/As to not even break 300HP at the wheels. They're not novices either and we're not talking stock-ish build... I'm talking completely custom cams and crankshafts, all forged internals, stupid high compression ratios, port and polish jobs, larger valves... the 7M is a GREAT engine for forced induction... it's miserable as a N/A; A fact which I finally accepted about two years ago.
For the replacement head check out local salvage yards where you pull it yourself.... around here they charge $25 to $50 for a complete head... even if you go through 3 duds before buying a good one you're still coming out on top as opposed to what you're likely to pay on Craigslist or Ebay.