Ha ha, yeah I know the feeling. Mine had nice blue silicon hoses on the breathers & BPV before I started, now they're black...
I've not painted anything yet, only cosmetic bits I've got round to are cleaning the 3000 pipe a bit & all the rest of the boost hoses (I'm a lazy so & so!) and repaired the broken dipstick with the shank of a 1/16" pop rivet shoved down between the T piece & tube part!
Again, the cams don't have to come out really but you'll find it a lot easier to clean up the combustion chambers with all the valves shut, plus you can put the head down right side up without bending valves.
Obviously if you do take them out make sure all the caps go back in the same place & orientation as they came out (mine are marked IN> and EX> with the > pointing to the front, not sure if that's stock or if they were done as a reminder) and the valve shim buckets have to go back in the same hole too.
Torque for the cap bolts is 14ft/lb, undo & do them up gradually along the length of the cams so as not to force one end down before the other.
Also bear in mind that the cam seals have to be replaced if you pull the cams. It does make cleaning up a helluva lot easier though!
EDIT-: DUDE, tell me your battery isn't still connected?
Don't think there's anything in particular you'd damage but one hell of a fire risk when the fuel rail's on that side too, just ONE spark & bye bye supra... *shudder*
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit...
'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...
'83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks
'95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it
I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!