checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

cre · 01-02-2010, 09:24 PM

Chasing head bolt threads.... Google it and I'll let you decide how worried you want to be. If you installed head studs and not bolts then you don't need to worry about it really. If you did use headbolts, I hope you lubricated them VERY well and you should plan on doing multiple retorques over the next several thousand miles.

I agree with the cranking with the EFI fuse pulled, I don't agree with running straight 30 weight oil.... this is NOT a rebuild Joe.

I don't see any point to the thing about running the car, then stopping it, then running it, then stopping it.... I don't see any harm from doing it, but I see no benefit... Mind elaborating on this Joe?

When I'm getting ready to finish a HG job I pour some of the thinnest (and cheapest) oil I can find over the cams so it will flow through the head and block and help flush out any garbage. Don't leave the drain plug in. Then, I'll plug the drain, and pour in my motor oil (don't use expensive stuff here either) without the covers on yet, making sure to saturate the cams and valve buckets. I'll pull the EFI fuse (shouldn't be in yet anyway) install the valve covers and crank the engine for about 30 seconds. Now jumper FP and B+ in the diagnostic box to power the fuel pump with the car off.... look for fuel leaks. NOW, install spark plugs, intake, EFI fuse, remove jumper and start her up. Let the car run at idle until it reaches operating temp. Check again for leaks, check oil level and top off as needed.

Now, drive it around the block a couple times... not too far, just want to make sure everything is flowing well. Head home and change the oil and filter. Dont' run the best stuff here either as you're going to be changing it again in 3 or 4 days... use the good stuff then (I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30 or Castrol Syntec European Blend 0W-30). When you do the final oil change changing the coolant is a good idea as well.

Use a GOOD oil filter, Purolator PureOne, Wix/NAPA Gold, Mobile One or K&N.... I really recommend using a PureOne here, I think it has the finest filtration of small particles.

It's not that I like wasting oil... but it's cheap compared to doing damage due to particulate in the engine that you didn't realize was there.

01-02-2010, 09:24 PM	#134
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Chasing head bolt threads.... Google it and I'll let you decide how worried you want to be. If you installed head studs and not bolts then you don't need to worry about it really. If you did use headbolts, I hope you lubricated them VERY well and you should plan on doing multiple retorques over the next several thousand miles. I agree with the cranking with the EFI fuse pulled, I don't agree with running straight 30 weight oil.... this is NOT a rebuild Joe. I don't see any point to the thing about running the car, then stopping it, then running it, then stopping it.... I don't see any harm from doing it, but I see no benefit... Mind elaborating on this Joe? When I'm getting ready to finish a HG job I pour some of the thinnest (and cheapest) oil I can find over the cams so it will flow through the head and block and help flush out any garbage. Don't leave the drain plug in. Then, I'll plug the drain, and pour in my motor oil (don't use expensive stuff here either) without the covers on yet, making sure to saturate the cams and valve buckets. I'll pull the EFI fuse (shouldn't be in yet anyway) install the valve covers and crank the engine for about 30 seconds. Now jumper FP and B+ in the diagnostic box to power the fuel pump with the car off.... look for fuel leaks. NOW, install spark plugs, intake, EFI fuse, remove jumper and start her up. Let the car run at idle until it reaches operating temp. Check again for leaks, check oil level and top off as needed. Now, drive it around the block a couple times... not too far, just want to make sure everything is flowing well. Head home and change the oil and filter. Dont' run the best stuff here either as you're going to be changing it again in 3 or 4 days... use the good stuff then (I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30 or Castrol Syntec European Blend 0W-30). When you do the final oil change changing the coolant is a good idea as well. Use a GOOD oil filter, Purolator PureOne, Wix/NAPA Gold, Mobile One or K&N.... I really recommend using a PureOne here, I think it has the finest filtration of small particles. It's not that I like wasting oil... but it's cheap compared to doing damage due to particulate in the engine that you didn't realize was there. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->