Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86
I turn my crank with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a deep well 19mm socket. As long as the car isn't in gear, the engine is fairly easy to turn over this way. And it can be done with the fan installed, but it is quite a bit easier with it off.
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Pulling the spark plugs makes hand turning the crank even easier... and safer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradenman1
Also the guy at power fab said that i shouldnt loosen the head bolts i should just torque them to about 60 ft/lbs in the proper sequence. he said that loosening them could strip them and also cause the gasket to not seat right and create a leak.
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He right about concerns about compromising a composite head gasket... it's a real concern, but it's far less likely the less you loosen the fasteners... that's why you want to back them off as little as possible. Start with just a quarter turn.
He's wrong about stripping the threads of the head bolts or the CAST IRON block... and his recommended torque value is pretty much stock: 58ft lbs...
He's wrong about not breaking them loose. Do some research on striction and talk to a mechanical engineer about it's effect on torque values. If you love uneven torque and wildly inaccurate readings go for it.
Further more, as there's no lubricant on the threads they're going to have a LOT more friction across all of the connecting surface area... you could honestly torque them past 90 ft lbs and still not reach the same actual clamping force you'll get if you were reinstalling them properly lubed with moly grease and torqued to 75ft lbs. You can help smooth things out a *little* by spraying a GOOD penetrating oil at the base of the head bolt before and after cracking it loose... just soak it... and NO WD-40!
Here's some info I posted about retorquing:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/77288-post10.html Also, everyone needs to keep in mind that the torque value you use on the head bolts or studs depends a LOT on what you're using for lubrication.
Yes, you may use sandpaper to clean up the mating surface for the exhaust mani... use a sanding block though and don't sand any more than absolutely necessary. I would use 400 grit sand paper.