Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86
Pulling the engine on these cars is fairly straightforward. You can leave it almost fully assembled if you pull the wiring harness with the engine. All you have to do is remove your glovebox, unplug the harness from the ECU, and push the wires and the grommet out through the firewall into the engine bay. Then just find the couple of connectors that go to body electronics, and you're good to go.
IMO, it's easiest to pull the transmission with the engine. Helps maintain the proper angle when removing it from the car, and then you don't have to deal with the PITA bolts at the top of the bellhousing.
And one last thing, remove your hood! First time I didn't think it through and halfway through the process I had to stop to get that thing out of the way
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ok so maybe that will be a better option than getting it down to the block and then removing it. either way i will be taking the tranny out at the same time then swapping in the r154. and yea i cant imagine pulling the engine with the good still on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cre
Chasing the threads is easy. Just do it when you've got some energy and patience left.  What you want is an "Intermediate" or "taper" type. I'll dig up the size when I have a moment. The only real trick is keeping the tap VERY well lubed and cleaning out the hole frequently (especially important with a block that hasn't had the threads chased in a long time). So, you take head off and clean out the bolt hole thoroughly, lube the tap with some lightweight motor oil, start threading the tap in (getting it started is the tricky part, DO NOT LET IT MISTHREAD!!!!!!!!!!!), then slowly and steadily thread the tap in half way or so. Now remove and clean the tap and finish threading it into the bolt hole. Remove the tap, clean it and the hole out thoroughly and thread the tap back into the hole and chase it the whole way to be sure everything is smooth. Remove the tap, clean out the hole and tap again and move on to the next.
When I say the manufacturer's specs I meant the manufacturer of the fastener... not the car. ARP specifies 75ft lbs for 7M head bolts and 90ft lbs for 7M head studs.
By the way, there is actually a difference between a "chase" and a "tap". A chase is generally a little undersized and doesn't cut the block material as much. These are intended to correct misshapen threads. Taps are intended for cutting new threads into a material. The difference with a cast iron block isn't a critical one, although I think with an aluminum block a tap in place of a chase would be a big no-no. |
lol oh man. ive used a tap and dye before is this somewhat the same? and once i tap the holes i wont need bigger size bolts? and how much resistance should i be feeling when i do this? wow so many questions. where can i buy this and how long does it need to be? and should i apply rtv to my bolts when i install them? thanks for all the info. my patience has greatly improved from this car. im actually excited to hack at this more with the tranny coming in. i also want to upgrade the suspension like we talked about earlier with bushings, shocks and springs. ill also be prepping the interior.im working locally so transportation isnt a must anymore.
thanks again