Quote:
Originally Posted by cre
No, you'll use the stock size bolts. You're not tapping the holes any larger, you're tapping at their current size to just clear out material which has swelled and to reshape them so that the bolts can go in without any resistance which would skew the torque readings.
Make sure to THOROUGHLY lubricate the bolt threads with a good moly based lube. If you used moly lube prior (you should have, if you didn't there's major mistake #2) you can soften it up by massaging a little oil into it, but I'dd add some fresh grease too.
tighten in the correct order in multiple passes. I generally torque in 15 to 20 ft lb increments. First pass @ 30, second @ 45, third @ 60, fourth at 75. If I'm using studs I'll do it that way up to 90 (did last night in fact).
The tap length doesn't matter, but they're fairly standard. You want one the same size and pitch of the stock head bolts. A bottoming tap is even better but they're a lot more expensive. Unlike a taper they'll cut evenly all the way to the bottom, but it isn't critical here.
Buy or borrow or rent a machinist's straight edge and check the block and head for warpage as shown in the TSRM. Make sure the lower rear timing plate's deck does NOT sit any higher than the block's deck!!!! If it does it will keep the head from coming down all the way and evenly.
Absolutely not!
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moly and grease on the threads?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cre
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wow im sorry to say that i failed to check that. wiki is my middle name
thanks cre. who knows possibly in a couple months i can actually get this running