Temperature question

Bru · 05-17-2010, 05:18 AM

I have had good results using Eagle brand (in the green bottle) cooling system sealer.
I have it in the cooling system as a preventative measure. If the leak is in the heater core
you'll have to run the heat to seal it. Test the amout of antifreeze using on of those floating ball testors. Should be atleast 50/50 but not more than 70% antifreeze. Air in the system can cause wierd temperatrue readings also. Check the level under the radiator cap when its cold. It should be liquid right under the cap providing there is enough in the over flow tank when it was hot. Check the hose going from the side of the radiator cap to the over flow tank and under the over flow cap for being plugged up (blow some air and see if it bubbles). Check the hose under the over flow cap for tightness. It needs to go down into the liquid to function properly. The rubber hose here deteriates with age. The radiator cap can be tested at a srevice station or perhaps AutoZone. If its old, replace it. You can test the thermostat in 195F water to see if it opens all the way. The jiggle valve is up on the install. I use silicone to seal the thermostat housing. Be careful tightening the 2 housing bolts. They strip or break off easily.

Have you ever noticed how the rubber radiator hose tends to attack the aluminum housing at both places on the block causing pitting and rot? I solved this problem during my last rebuilt by wire brushing the loose metal rot away and then heating a little with a propane torch it to further flake off anything that wasn't solid. Next I mixed up some fresh JB weld from new tubes and smeared on a thin layer. After it hardened overnight it was just like a new surface, smooth and solid. Now the chemicals in the rubber hose can't attack the aluminum because the JB weld protects it.

05-17-2010, 05:18 AM	#2
Bru Bone Stock w Upgrades ;-) Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 210	I have had good results using Eagle brand (in the green bottle) cooling system sealer. I have it in the cooling system as a preventative measure. If the leak is in the heater core you'll have to run the heat to seal it. Test the amout of antifreeze using on of those floating ball testors. Should be atleast 50/50 but not more than 70% antifreeze. Air in the system can cause wierd temperatrue readings also. Check the level under the radiator cap when its cold. It should be liquid right under the cap providing there is enough in the over flow tank when it was hot. Check the hose going from the side of the radiator cap to the over flow tank and under the over flow cap for being plugged up (blow some air and see if it bubbles). Check the hose under the over flow cap for tightness. It needs to go down into the liquid to function properly. The rubber hose here deteriates with age. The radiator cap can be tested at a srevice station or perhaps AutoZone. If its old, replace it. You can test the thermostat in 195F water to see if it opens all the way. The jiggle valve is up on the install. I use silicone to seal the thermostat housing. Be careful tightening the 2 housing bolts. They strip or break off easily. Have you ever noticed how the rubber radiator hose tends to attack the aluminum housing at both places on the block causing pitting and rot? I solved this problem during my last rebuilt by wire brushing the loose metal rot away and then heating a little with a propane torch it to further flake off anything that wasn't solid. Next I mixed up some fresh JB weld from new tubes and smeared on a thin layer. After it hardened overnight it was just like a new surface, smooth and solid. Now the chemicals in the rubber hose can't attack the aluminum because the JB weld protects it.