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The GTE has different pistons, a drilled oil feed and drain, comes with an oil cooler (easy to add a better setup to the GE... the GTE's was a piss poor design anyway and should be replaced), it uses two knock sensors in different locations than the N/A's single knock sensor, the GTE has a higher volume oil pump, and the GTE has oil squirters which serve to cool the cast pistons. You may have the block drilled and tapped for thew knock sensors and drilled for the oil drain but you cannot rework the block to add the oil squirters with much effort. You have a difficult time finding a machine shop will to drill an old cast iron block and actually guarantee it... they'll do it but cracks are a slight risk. The oil feed can be sourced by either drilling the stock location or from the blocked 1/8BSP oil port behind the thermostat tower in line with the oil pressure sender.

I've blown up a N/A-T with a lot of work put into fuel and oiling and detonation control, as have many others... I do not recommend it.

The car won't run as well as it could on GTE electronics if it's still N/A.... won't be terrible but you lose the ACIS system. You'll also have to change out the distributor setup for the coil pack setup, the airflow meter, wire harness and a couple other odds and ends.