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Haven't we already discussed the CSI? Did you test it? Even if the CSI time switch is bad and the CSI is firing whether the car is warm or cold it won't take 20 minutes for extra richness that's only occurring while cranking to clear up.

Ditch the Marvel crap, in the long run it does more damage than good... just run a GOOD oil, try out Penzoil Platinum if you want very good and very cheap. Marvel's just nasty solvents and mineral oil which breaks down under the heat very quickly... Use a good oil and the detergents in it will keep the engine clean just fine and you don't risk releasing any natsy chunks or sludge and debris, it'll be dissolved gradually.

Redline and Techron are both PEA (Polyether Amine) based fuel treatments, run two of either, if that doesn't help and it is the injectors then you need to send them for service. Also, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! It needs to be added to an empty tank (at the gas station, right before you fill up) and driven until near empty before filling up again or you'll dilute it. This ensures a proper concentration and thorough mix. After this only run fuel with PEA based additives (no low grade and only some mid grades usually contain additives, but also check what kind they're using).

Have you tested the KVAFM? Try unplugging it and go for a drive, it'll set codes but the engine should run decently.

With that amount of mileage I'd send the injectors to a reliable shop for cleaning, screen replacement and blueprinting; RC Engineering and Cruizin Performance are the companies I've used in the past with good luck.

Lastly, is the O2 sensor good and connected? All 7M's use a warm start fuel map hat's about 20% richer than the cold start map; As long as the stock O2 sensor is connected this only affects WOT after a warm start.... I've no idea why Toyota did that but it's been confirmed on both the GE and the GTE.