[El_supracabra]

i am currently in the process of upgrading/rebuilding my 7MGE. I really wanted to keep some of that *area under the curve* power that you have with a Naturally aspirated engine. Some things that I did to improve the power on mine were small improvements. It took A LOT of elbow grease to do the p&p and gasket match. but I used a die grinder w some 60 grit flapwheels. (about 1" in diameter you can get them from NAPA autoparts) then i used a drill (with a 6" boring bar ext) and some 300 grit sandpaper (glued to the flapwheels) but i p&p'd the INTAKE MANIFOLD and the both sides of the CYLINDER HEAD. then i used some 800 grit by hand to finish. If you have the money you can just pay a performance shop to do it. You are not supposed to polish AFTER the injectors, so leave that section Rough to aid in fuel atomization. you will DEFINITELY want to completely disassemble the head before doing ANY sanding or cutting. THEN have it jet washed at a machine shop before reassembling. I would also recommend a 3 angle valve job while it is all tore down.

If you dont want to go through all that. i would def recommend having the head milled about .020" or more (but I wouldnt feel comfortable going over .040") just to increase the compression ratio. Also going w a thinner stronger gasket such as a cometic or hks stainless steel mls will raise compression (hp) and will last much longer than the graphite stock one. If you go with a SS hg then you def need to run ARP studs or at least New bolts.

Also another small improvement you can do is replace the old 23lb flywheel (if of course you have a standard) with a new lightweight flywheel. i went with a chrome-moly 12lb. That will free up some of the rotational mass that is "loading" the motor during acceleration. Good luck!

LONG LIVE NA POWER!! lol