That is a real tough call on the top of the block. You never know if that spot will hold or not after you put it all back together. If you don't get the deck machined, then you might be able to clean that spot real well and put some JB Weld in it to fill that low spot.
I had the head milled .010 and the deck milled.010. I could have gone more and kind of wish that I did. The main thing is the cam timing. When you mill anything it retards the cam timing and you have to correct for it. When you get everything tightened down and the marks lined up on the cam and the number 1 piston at TDC, pull the belt up tight to put on the intake cam gear. The teeth probabaly won't line up witht the gear teeth. You want the belt to be tight so you will have to take the cam gear off and move it along with the pegs to the point where you can just get the belt over the gear and have it as tight as you can without moving the crank or the intake cam.
The cam gear marks won't be at the top anymore probably in getting the belt tight, so that is why you have to be careful not to move the gear while finding what combination hole on the cam and gear make the belt the tightest.
I think you can take much more off the head and still have plenty of adjustment left on the belt. The more you can take off the head the more compression you get, just make sure you get the timing cover milled to match the block. I think most racers like at least .060 clearance at the closest point between the valve and the piston.
Sorry to babble, but I think this stuff is fun.
Russ
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