Quote:
Originally Posted by MJG
85% of my Supra driving is highway. Granted, my setup is greatly affected by heat soak. What system is not? Placing the filter under the headlight will still leave your intake tubing exposed to heat soak.
I do not use my Supra as a daily driver. Road trips are the common use.
I have a translator Pro with speed density and monitor the intake temp as one of four values.
Around town, depending on ambient temp, the intake temp will rise at stop lights, big time. In contrast, freeway driving with 91 degree F ambient temp, climbing snoqualmie pass @ 70MPH, I had an intake temp of 72 degree F.
The system I have is not for everyone. It sure works for my application.
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I've logged a few different setups with the MAFT Pro as well other EMS's too; Unless you're doing comparisons of each system on like builds under like conditions it means nothing. Open filters (which is all that yours is at low speed and at rest) see a huge increase in intake temps and it takes a while for the engine to clear out that excess heat. While the car is moving there's enough air moving through the engine bay to negate a good percentage of the benefits. The sum of which is more than enough for most to ensure the good ol' "dryer duct CAI"'s placement it on the "not worth it Civic mods" list; Right beneath the entry for "MASSIVE air filter sitting open in engine bay on the EXHAUST side of the bay no less" but still over a couple dozen slots below #1 "4' aluminum racing wing on FWD car with 98HP"(this really is one of my all time favorites).
Sure, any piping in the bay is subject to some heat soak but when the filter is pulling in cool air it's affect is negligible; Besides, it's nothing a good wrap or ceramic coating won't cure to a very significant degree. My soda is still nice and cool when it reaches my lips through the straw even though it's being pulled through 92? air... But put that soda in pot on a hot stove and it's another story (whether you stick in another, smaller straw and blow bubbles or not).
72?? Isn't wind chill great? You know that even if it's 100? out you can still form ice inside the intake? That's why the TB and ISCV have coolant lines run to them. Sorry to say you're not defying the laws of physics though.
Anyway, the point you're missing is that it could be much better all around for the measly cost of a couple feet of pipe with a bend in it... and it generally involves no more effort to install. Actually, the stock air box is best of all... it breathes just fine for up into the 300's is CAI, easy to replace, has after market filters available and there's no extra work to make it fit. A filter under the fog light is nice as you can fit up to 5"x7" without deleting the fog light... if you delete the fog light you can fit a whopper 7"x 10" or so... I don't remember the specifics but you can fit some real nice, big filters under there.
I'm not trying to sound like a dick (It just comes naturally, really... can't help it); There's really nothing redeeming to this mod... In my opinion it's nothing more than a weak attempt to fix what was broken by deleting a better system.
zMrManz:
Well, an AEM DryFlow will run you about $60. The AEM Bypass Valve will run you about.. you guessed it: $60. The AFM adapter for the AFM will run about $10 on eBay or Amazon. And you'll need to find a piece of pipe that's 2.75" dia (If I remember correctly, hopefully someone else will chime in with a measurement.) with a 90? bend in it and about 6" straight on one side or the bend and 12" coming off the other... Cost will depend where you get it, $10 or $15 give or take. So you're in for less than you'd pay for an Apex'i Power Intake or the K&N FIPK (both just filters sitting in the engine bay).
Use the bypass valve as the coupler to connect the pipe's 12" leg to the AFM, put the pipe through the hole the stock airbox breathed through so it points down. Pull off the fog light, install the filter, put the fog light back in and tighten everything down. If any of the piping is too long then cut as needed; It's not going to be seeing any boost so loosing a rolled bead isn't going to hurt anything (and clean out any metal shavings/dust thoroughly before final assembly and mounting).
I'd buy the adapter plate first so you know what size to get for everything else... anything over 3" and you'll be doing some cutting. All of the MKIII's I've installed full intakes for didn't use the AFM and ran 3" or larger piping... sorry I can't be of more help there.
I STRONGLY recommend you put some rubber between the pipe and the lip of the opening. I've seen piping get cut through creating a nice large turbo killing sliver of aluminum; Since seeing that I usually take some fuel line and cut it lengthwise and glue it to that lip first.