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Old 10-25-2011, 02:17 AM   #4
SURFERDAVE
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by interested! View Post
Hi! generally, if the wheel wont turn , the caliper is sticking , if you intend overhauling , beware of pitting corrosion in the piston at the seal rub area.
Any deep pitting will allow the fluid to weep/leak under pressure .
Tip; before removing brake pipe from the caliper , fill the reservoir to the brim , cover with several folded patches of cling-film and hold in place with a tight fitting strong rubber band, this will act as a pipette , the lack of space will create a vacuum stopping the system from draining out ,so only the removed items will hopefully need bleeding at re-assembly .Edit: remember to remove the patch when bleeding .
Thanks for the info. I will use the plastic wrap, the same stuff I forgot to take off the turkey before I tossed it in the oven. That stuff is a little crispy so I will get some new cling wrap. I was kind of wondering if in 88 toyta made a caliper worth rebuilding and keeping or nowadays even a middle of the road new caliper is just as good. I hate to send in my core if these things are made well. I will break them down again and see where they are sticking. I used never-seize thinking it would work better, maybe thats the issue?
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88 turbo targa-kn intake- 3" exhaust no cats- shrt shift mod- valve job and head gasket-heater core,
Eibach and tokico suspension, K&N intake
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