Quote:
Originally Posted by warmkop
one of the oem turbo wastgate port is starting to crack so need to replace them and would rather use a single turbo
I really dont think im gone be able to get the oem ecu tuned here and the web addres is www.gotech .co.za
The flywheel is stil a piece of solid alliminium must stil start with it.
Dont worry about the speed of the 1km then wil just see wat speed it gets on the 1/4 setup. |
The oem ecu can't be tuned - at least not without extensive (and expensive and impractical imho) internal modifications - so I agree that's not an option at all, anywhere. However, just because the oem ecu can't be tuned, that doesn't mean you should tear it out. There are several good choices for relatively inexpensive and easy-to-tune fuel controllers (aka 'piggyback' ecus) that leverage/retain all of the oem ecu's tuning. For example, have you considered this device?
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/afcneo.html
If you can find one used, it should be quite affordable. Unless you object, I'll recommend you sell that gotech ecu, and install an afc neo - okay? Let's call that
TSI modification#1 for your project.
Note: I'm assuming you'll sell the fuel cell, the gotech ecu, and anything else we don't use - right????
TSI Modification#2 will be to get your turbo situation squared away. Even a relatively small single turbo will get you into the 10s, so let's go ahead and use that 57mm, .70 a/r turbo you've already got, on that godspeed header. Install it all with a
Tial wastegate, and run all hoses and lines.
Preferred alternative: Purchase and install a 100% complete turbo kit:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...-98_Supra/3627
Also install an
HKS S-Type intercooler (or equivalent).
TSI Modification#3: Finish your fuel system upgrades:
Put a second oem (Denso) fuel pump into your tank. Run a brand new 12 volt circuit with a relay for your second fuel pump
all the way from the battery (do NOT splice your oem fuel pump wiring except as a trigger for the relay or your wiring will overheat inside your fuel tank - this is a very bad thing). Run a new, separate -6AN line from that 2nd pump to the engine, with an in-line -6AN fuel filter. Run the oem fuel line to one side of your fuel rail, and the new -6AN line to the other side of your fuel filter. Run a new line from the center of the fuel rail to your aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, and run the output of the regulator to your oem fuel return line. Install the rail with your 1200cc injectors.
Let me know if you have any questions about any of this.
Preferred alternative: Get a 100% complete fuel system:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...DAY_SALE___/17
TSI Modification#4: I need more info here...
what was wrong with your oem clutch and/or your oem flywheel? Also, you posted a pic of a what looks like a new pressure plate - what brand is it?
For a 10 second pass, you'll need an aftermarket pressure plate (with greater pressure than the oem pressure plate), and an aftermarket clutch disk - the one you posted up looks fine. Either a new oem flywheel or an aftermarket flywheel will do fine. If it's not too late, I'd opt for a steel flywheel rather than an aluminum one - you need mass in the flywheel to keep the wheels spinning off launch and in between shifts. A flywheel that's too light will allow the driveline to lose too many rpm too quickly, and will make for a poor drag race setup.
---At this point, your Supra should be fully reassembled---
TSI Modification#5: Fill with E85, and tune the AFC Neo and the aftermarket FPR until it runs. Don't tune any specific RPM ranges yet - just the overall baseline. You may need to change the MAF input to 1/2 (the AFC has a setting for this), which will reduce the volume of fuel squirted into the engine by 1/2...which may be all you need as a starting point, along with a base fuel pressure of about 35psi (oem base is 44psi). Oh, be sure you install a boost gauge and an air/fuel gauge (either wideband, or one that uses the oem O2 sensor). An EGT gauge would be good/useful too.
TSI Modification#6: Install wider rear rims. The cheapest option here is to get your oem 17"x8" front rims widened to 17"x11" (3" wider), and then move them to the rear with
spacers. Put the oem 17"x9.5" rear rims on the front, trimming the caliper lip if necessary. Get some
315 BFG drag radials to put on the 17"x11" rear rims. Please refer to this tech article:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/par...ned/index.html
TSI Modification#7: Install aftermarket rear springs - preferrably Eibach. They have progressive resistance, and they lower your Supra by about an inch. I'm sure you can find these used.
After these mods, you'll need to get it
dyno-tuned and get it running reliably. Then we can 'tweak' the final configuration before you head to the drag strip.
Please let me know your thoughts about this 7-step plan. We can modify it, but we need to do it together - okay?
P.S. Don't forget the leakdown test.