5m-ge future engine mods?

[Mk2guy]

Ya, I heard that aluminum react with steel. something about electrons not matching and causing galvanic corrosion, which is rust I think.

Let us know how it goes though. I can talk you through the timing bit. That is easy. I would set everything at 0, on the compression stroke first, before you start the tear down. It is hard, but it's not a nightmare. I had to replace the pulley on mine. eveything was bad on mine. I spent $1500 on parts this year alone. $700 on parts the year before. Ya, your way ahead of me. Don't worry.

[mechrider89]

Originally Posted by Mk2guy

Ya, I heard that aluminum react with steel. something about electrons not matching and causing galvanic corrosion, which is rust I think.

Let us know how it goes though. I can talk you through the timing bit. That is easy. I would set everything at 0, on the compression stroke first, before you start the tear down. It is hard, but it's not a nightmare. I had to replace the pulley on mine. eveything was bad on mine. I spent $1500 on parts this year alone. $700 on parts the year before. Ya, your way ahead of me. Don't worry.

Lol well you can afford parts, I'm just trying to keep it fixed so I can do a dd swap. I'd like to push the talon out of my carport so I could work in a sheltered area, but my whole engine bays stripped paint and all and I don't want it to rust!

[CanadianBak'inSupra]

Originally Posted by Mk2guy

Ya, I heard that aluminum react with steel. something about electrons not matching and causing galvanic corrosion, which is rust I think.

i believe they heat a cool at different rates as well

[mechrider89]

ooh ya no worries I was planning on going and getting it hot tanked, and get the surface check, and decked if necessary. Looking at valve guides and springs to because there's no way my valve seals aren't fucked, and the stock valve springs will more then likely fail there spring rate test.

And one way you can check to see if low compression's do to a hg failure or piston rings is to do a leak down test and or a compression test with a cap full of oil dumped into each cylinder. If the compression goes up with the oil its your rings if not the rings are good then.

For aluminum I believe there's 3 or for 4 strength stages, I know that semi rims are stage 1.

[mechrider89]

wow! thanx for the link bak'in its perfect!

[CanadianBak'inSupra]

check the part about cleaning and priming your lash adjusters.
when you drop your oil if there is evidence of lots of coolant you may want to inspect your bearings if that is the case.

[Mk2guy]

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...ston-Kit/page2

Here is the only place I have seen some one with pistons like mine, but I haven't heard anyone who actually has installed them, so it makes me nervous thinking about installing them. With that high of compression I am not sure if I could use pump gas either. I know headers allow you to run a bit higher compression, the aluminum head helps because aluminum cools quicker, but really I am just guessing. If I went that far I would have to have the block sonic tested to make sure that the cylinder bores can handle it and cryogenically freeze the block to make it stronger. (See the cost is already up there) Then I would have to have the heads flow benched after I ported and polished them, and then get a math guy to help me figure out if the stock cam would would need to be replaced, or if it is ok to use. Custom cams are cheap either. (not to mention getting the crank rebalanced) It would be different if my supra was a tidy one, but it isn't.

Toyota used these piston when they first started grand prix or Le Mans or something like that. They are primitive, Toyota technology at it's Genesis. That can't be a good thing. I don't think they are a good idea, so I am looking for someone who has tried this, to spare me the expense. ( Let me know if you heard of anyone doing this, other wise I will likely get curious and throw money at this project, like an idiot, just to find out.

Also, if you wanted to check if your rings are bad you can do a wet/dry comparison. Do your compression test then put oil, a few drops, in the chamber. It you get more compression with the oil in the chamber, like a lot more, then your rings are probably bad. You might be able to change the rings with the engine in the car. (I would have but my crank was bad)

[CanadianBak'inSupra]

same i roasted my main between cylinders 3 and 4 LOL

i think you should try them out. if your not breaking shit or blowing shit up, your not trying hard enough, LOL
you could always sell them to me...
in the tsrm it says max overbore 84.25
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=48

also try researching cams, heard you can get your cam towers machined for a slightly longer duration/lift.

you should make your own build thread for your car. i am really diggin this overbore talk,

[mechrider89]

if you got the money man then there's nothing to lose, just go with your plan and I would advise upgrading the connecting rods to because you cant be to sure if the stock rods can hold the extra hp/torque plus it never hurts to have that extra security.

Ya I could drop the rotating assembly but the thing is if the rings are bad the block would have to come out anyways for a hone or bore. But I'm just going to do a compression test from there I'll decide what I'm going to do. Plan so far is to paint the talons engine bay and push it out of the car port then pull the supra in for the head removal, send the head to the machine shop for a look over replace whats necessary (possible port and polish) slap'er back together and HOPEFULLY be fine.