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5m-ge future engine mods?
Hey guys just trying to plan out my engine mods for the next year and maybe get some feed back? this is what I've come up with so far im totally new to the tuning world so help would be great!
Engine: Clevite crank bearings eagle rods JE pistons arp bolt kit cylinder head?? valves? header? non turbo (plan on putting 3'' exhaust on it) polished intake/exhaust ports cold air intake (of coarse!) Fuel system: 255cc walbro fuel pump 300cc walbro fuel injectors Suspension: |
the pistons and rods will be a good upgrade, def get the rotating assembly balanced professionally, itll smoothe it out and rev a bit easier/more too.
check the cyl head out and see what needs replaced ( guides, seats ground etc.) then do a small diy pnp. a set of stock valves will be fine, spring upgrade (if there is one for the 5m?) headers help alot, you wont see it on a dyno necessarily, but it makes for good drivability. i think you mean a 255 lph fuel pump. and swapping in a set of cleaned 7m injectors would be more than enough, they spec out at about 310cc i believe. what are you gonna use for EMS? stock or aftermarket? sounds like a solid plan, should be good. |
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forum seems a little dead on the mk2 side of things.... |
heck yea, im normally on the mk3 side, but ive noticed the mk2 is a lil slow as well so i jump over and see if theres anything happenin haha.
yea, as for ems, youve got alot of choices. im goin with Mega Squirt, then theres a slough of other ones. ms is nice and affordable, even if fully assembled. super cheap if you can solder. neway, an aftermarket EMS will allow you to take full advantage of all your upgrades, and get rid of the crappy, conservative stock tune. just be sure whoever tunes it, you or a shop, knows what they are doing. you can eff up a motor quick if you screw up a tune. start pig-rich with fuel and conservative timing, then work your way up from there. |
Cheap would be nice! haha theres only 2 performance shops in my city that I know of and one doesnt even have a dyno their pretty much ricer central. I wouldnt know how to tune it unless someone showed me so I'd just take it to the best shop I could find.
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yea, check them out. they have alot of online support, and you can download their tuning software for free onto the laptop you use for tuning.
its best to find a shop with a dyno when you get it tuned. even if they are a ways away. a shop without a dyno that is "tuner central" wouldnt be my first choice at all. anyway, good luck with it and keep updating! |
Thanks I sure will, and thanks for your help again. You've given me some advise I definitely needed.
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I did this back in the late 80's! The same still applies.
1. First, lighten your car as much as possible; AC compressor, heat shields, exhaust, etc. 2. Header back exhaust (not sure who makes headers now, but they are out there). don't buy an exhaust system - have a muffler shop do one for you - I used 2.5" pipe; get a really good free flow muffler. 3. Make sure you port match your head - intake and exhaust sides - to your header and intake manifolds and polish. This is important. 4. Ditch the fan, go electric, makes a difference on high rpms. 5. I never saw a difference with aftermarket coils and wires, but it never hurts. Indexing the spark plugs made a difference. 6. Build a new air intake hose assembly. Cut a hole out under the current air filter housing and run a hose down that faces forward under the lower spoiler - poor mans ram air or do a hood pop-up. replacing the intake from the airbox to the throttle valve - the resonator sucks. 7. Polish air meter box sharp edges and throttle body. There is an aftermarket TB you can get for the intake that is a bit larger. 8. Go custom pistons - .120 over to 3 liters and 10:1 compression (or more). factory rods are fine. 9. Valve springs are weak, I used shims to tigthen mine up - worked great. 10. Cams - not sure if you can still get reground cams (and according lash shims), but you can also order Japanese market cams. I did all of this, plus suspension. I don't know what horsepower I got, but it was a fast as the late 80's V8 mustangs and handled much better. If I was going to do it again? I'd probably drop in an American high rev, high HP, low/med torque small block. |
cant wait to see when its done!!
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