08-07-2015, 11:44 PM | #1 |
12psi boost
Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 320
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Starter Short Problem????
I jacked my MKIII up and attached a wire to the blue and white wire tabbed location brown clip on the starter using the correct insulated connector and ran it to the positive terminal of my battery and it acts like it is shorting out when I touch positive wire to the battery terminal. I was following instructions I read on the site as to how to test the activation wire to the starter. The car sat for a couple of years but the starter worked fine when I parked it does anyone have an answer for this? Does this mean the starter has somehow gone bad just from sitting?
The wire sparks when I touch it to the positive terminal seems to burn slightly give off good sparks and stick to the terminal but not like a full short or is that a full sort? I'm Like WTF? The Starter does nothing. I have full battery and the car only clicks when I try to start it. Could a short have developed with the starter just from sitting? Please respond. Thanks
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1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! Last edited by batmmannn; 08-07-2015 at 11:46 PM. |
08-09-2015, 05:32 PM | #2 |
12psi boost
Join Date: May 2010
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 320
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Ordered another damned Starter.... GAD! WTF? Reman Starter $58.00 free shipping One year warranty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REMAN-STARTE...842e65&vxp=mtr
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1987 N/A 7MGE Left Hand Drive MK3 Red 5 Speed and Black Auto Supras My Next project is the Batmobile! |
09-23-2015, 11:50 PM | #3 |
Stock
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: orlando, fl
Posts: 7
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The starter activation wire runs from the ignition switch through the a/t, if you have one, and then to the solenoid of the starter. If you are still having problems with the starter then you need to verify the voltage that is feeding the solenoid and it should no more than 0.6 volts less than the battery voltage.
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02-02-2020, 02:32 PM | #4 |
Intake
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: CT
Posts: 38
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Just bringing this back to a current (pun intended) discussion. I am going on my fourth starter in less than 2 years. Last one made it about 5 days and less than 10 starts). I am using the Autozone Duralast lifetime warranty starters (rebuilt of course). Voltage is fine to the starter. I have a push start button (bypassing the A/T neutral safety switch and alarm crap). After the last replacement I ran a test wire from "terminal 50" where the brown clip connects up to the battery to help diagnose the issue.
Each time I have gotten in, hit the key/button, and there is no attempt by the starter to spin. Hot wire just sparks as Batmannn mentioned. Pull the starter, take it down to AZ, they test it, and it's dead - no spin, no attempt to spin. Yeah these are lifetime warranties but I've had to have the car towed home each time. I've gotten really good at replacing the starter (and what a pain it is), but I'd rather noy have to do that. Also would like to trust that she will start when I need it. Nothing grounded and proper grounds are in place. Bad batch of rebuilt starters from AZ? Duralast just a bad choice? (Never had electronic issues from AZ parts - Advance yes, AZ no). |
02-03-2020, 02:05 AM | #5 |
Bone Stock w Upgrades ;-)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 210
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Just throwing this out there. Hot start problems can be the result of a going bad fuel pump relay that's located in that square fuse box behind the battery. The symptoms are: starts cold but if you warm up the car in park it for 20 minutes like going into the store it won't crank unless you cycle the switch about a dozen times. Turned out it was the fuel pump relay partially broken inside. It's a common relay that Toyota uses and can be found on other vehicles.
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