When Alternator Goes Bad
 

Ok, so it finally happened to me. 175K. Not bad. It lasted 17 years.

I got into the car, started it up, and wham !

The 'Battery, Tail Light Bulb, & Brake' lights were all on. The volt meter showed only 12v.

New reman alterntor form Carquest, #13278 (mine is automatic trans, so it is 80amp).

Back on the road again.

Im sorta confused i have a thing that tells me the voltage and sometimes it wont start i cant tell if its the battery or the alternator?
any ideas how to test them?

haha
 

mine just went out too! like 3 days ago. 165k hiiii 5

haha funds
 

yea i know what you mean i know mines bound to come
my cars been nothing but problems lol

at least you guys got funds

:redx:SPAM

i think your company should provide more information.

Alternator test
 

Just got a 87 nonturbo, before that worked on american classics, but to test the alternator I would simply pull the negative battery connection while the car is running, if it dies out immediately the alternator is not providing the charge, the battery is, hope this helps!

YEAH! i did it thanks alot
battery is weak
alternator works great

Japan Power Inc Poor Service
 

To all that are thinking about purchasing any supra engine 1jz gte, 2jz gte or anything as such. i highly recommand that you do not buy off these guys. Mike and Asa have no knowledge about what they are selling. i purchased a 1jz gte from them and it was not from a supra. it came from a "CHASER" it will not fit my MK III but they claim it will. not to mention that the purduct has damage to it. my oil pan has a gaint dent on it. when i ask if they will send me a new one they gave me the run around for three weeks. then when talking to Miike about who going to pay for shipping he gets upset saying he wont pay for shipping and hangs up on me. i just lost $1000. if you seen JAPAN POWER ON E BAY stay away. they are there to TAKE YOUR MONEY!!!!! i just hope that they will not RIP any more supra owners. do your RESEARCH before buying anything.

Not to rubbish that idea as it's fine on older stuff without electronics (indeed I've started many older cars with a good battery before removing that one & putting the flat one back in to charge, whilst it's running), but as soon as you start doing that on vehicles with ECU's, EFI and other electronic circuits (and we all know the Japanese especially LOVE electronic goodies!), you run the risk of damaging any number of components from a coil right through to the main ECU by creating a voltage spike as you remove the battery lead. (the alternator's kicking out the current to run the car & charge the battery, all of a sudden the load of charging the battery disappears & in the split second before the regulator can catch up *Bang*, there goes all the electronics that were switched on at the time...)

Avoiding voltage spikes can also apply to jump starting from another car, always make sure you connect the neg/- lead to the dead car last & disconnect it first & never hook it to the battery - post on the dead vehicle, always to a good earth like an engine mount or piece of the block/head. Like I say, not rubbishing the idea & it's fine on older stuff, just not these...