Help... my car is overheating - Page 2

12-08-2004, 09:32 AM

hi and thanks for that,

I have had the car back now 24hrs and seems fine but I do have the hole in the thermostat. I am keeping a close eye on things and going a few short distance runs in both open road and heavy traffic before I do anything adventurous.

I trust that on this occassion I was lucky and got away with it.

I am intrigued to hear two sides of the story about thermostats. That should be a bigger issue in the same way that HG bolts have been debated.

suprra_girl · 12-11-2004, 09:38 AM

well it spose it would be an interesting debate... i was told that trick by a radiator company

their reasoning:

occasionally the little toggle thats in the top of them gets stuck so they drill the hole to counter it in case it happens...
i myself haven't done this as i haven't needed to...
but if you don't feel you want that in yours.. thermostats being as cheap as they are you can always buy one hehe

good luck on the car and my best hopes your overheating problems are gone

12-16-2004, 02:26 PM

Hello again.
After all that I had the waterfall again and this time I just had to trust my instinct. So, after one weekend, three evenings of cleaning and reassembly I have a new CHG.

For anyone who is interested DONT be put off by thinking this is a hard job. Get the manual and photocopy it all out into the right order as many manuals flip backwards and forwards to other chapters, get all your tools out, put the car on ramps, depressurise the fuel system, disconnect the battery, use lots of labels to attach to things and get on with it.

The only thing I had a problem with was not having six fingers on each hand that were about 10inches long and with universal articulating joints. That would have made the whole job a lot easier as EVERYTHING is just so hard to get to. In the end I bought a pair of locking artery forceps and thay gave me the extra reach and grip. I bought those from a sporting store as they sell them for fishermen to get hooks out of toothy fish.

The timing belt was a doddle and you dont even need to take the lower cover off. Just clamp the belt carefully against some packers before you release the tension and then lift if off the sprockets. Usual cautions apply.

The turbo was a pain to get off because of the oil feed pipe location. In the end you have to make up some really long extension sockets and get it from underneath but it can be done.

I decided not to have the head/block or manifolds skimmed because all were straight and flat when checked with a feeler and straight edge. The only time you need any help is to lift/drop the head. To make that easier I raised up a platform around the car with pallets so we were could be more comfortable when handling the head as it was quite high on ramps.

So far the car is behaving impeccably and I will give you an update if there is one.

eandris · 06-01-2005, 06:56 PM

Okay, I've ran out of options. I read your message on overheating and can't seem to pin point the problem. Things I've done so far:

1) Brand new radiator.
2) Removed the thermostat
3) New fan clutch
4) Added K&H Bloc Seal - Hoping it would help if I had a BHG.
5) New radiator cap

I did remove the fan shroud because it was damaged but I doubt if it would overheat because of that. I've ran it for an hour and a half in the drive way. Take it for a ten minute trip on the freeway doing speeds up to 90 with no problem. Head back up the hill which is about a mile and half with about a 40 degree incline and it OVERHEATS. The temp gauge goes immediately to red and the radiator begins to bubble. No bubbling in the reservoir.

I read that I could a have air lock and should burp the system. I've set it on an incline ran it for an hour with the heater on so I'm assuming that's enough though I'm still getting small bubbles when I take of the radiator cap. Also, what is the viscous fan. Just a weekend mechanic who loves his supra (87 non turbo) so please make your answers for a "mechanic dummy". Thanks for a great forum.

06-01-2005, 07:18 PM

Hi, sounds like the dreaded cylinder head gasket. Sorry.

I did mine as reported almost 6 months ago and all is well. Dont be afraid to have a go yourself.
If you need convincing get a sniff or block test done at your local garage. That is a chemical added to the coolant. If it turns (green I think) then you have exhaust gas in the coolant.

I would not mind a bet that when you do get the head off the leak is between 5 and 6. thats always the one to look for.

Best regards

Chris

suprra_girl · 06-02-2005, 12:33 AM

unforuntately i agree with the above... bhg

get a block check or leak down test done, this will tell you if you have a bhg

viscous = clutch fan

eandris · 06-02-2005, 04:56 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I guess I was hoping for something different. Getting a little too hot for me to be pulling the engine apart so I think I'm going to give one of these block seals a try again. I've heard several people say that these work pretty well. I know it's not the best approach but if it doesn't work I'll be forced to change the gasket anyway.

Has anyone used any of the block seals? If so, any recommendations. I realize it can do damage to the engine but at the price and time it will cost me to fix it. In my case, it may be worth it.

KingDiamond · 06-02-2005, 08:45 PM

I've used prestone sealer plenty of times, works nicely, and may i suggest for a bhg , you use the prestone sealer for big leaks.

eandris · 06-02-2005, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by KingDiamond@Jun 2 2005, 08:45 PM
I've used prestone sealer plenty of times, works nicely, and may i suggest for a bhg , you use the prestone sealer for big leaks.

Should I remove the thermostat when adding the block seal? Just put it back in last night thinking my problems was solved. :angry: Also, the directions says not to run the car at high speeds (freeway) with sealant in it while I've heard others say to run it in order to seal all the leaks. It seems to make much more sense to run it for a while to have the sealant run through the whole system.

Thanks again for your response

eandris · 06-18-2005, 05:15 AM

Well, I've given up on the quick fixes and decided to go ahead and change the head gasket. Figured I'd just buy the gasket set (head, manifolds, etc) and change all of them and the timing belt while it's apart.

While I have everything taken apart, any recommendations on things I could do to either prevent additional problems later or add a little extra performance

. Not looking to street race but do enjoy openinging it up once in a while. This is a non turbo 86.5. Also, I've heard several people mention steel gaskets. Any particular brand and where to purchase them would be great.

12-11-2004, 09:38 AM	#12
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	well it spose it would be an interesting debate... i was told that trick by a radiator company their reasoning: occasionally the little toggle thats in the top of them gets stuck so they drill the hole to counter it in case it happens... i myself haven't done this as i haven't needed to... but if you don't feel you want that in yours.. thermostats being as cheap as they are you can always buy one hehe good luck on the car and my best hopes your overheating problems are gone __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

06-02-2005, 12:33 AM	#16
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	unforuntately i agree with the above... bhg get a block check or leak down test done, this will tell you if you have a bhg viscous = clutch fan __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

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12-08-2004, 09:32 AM	#11
Guest Guest Posts: n/a	hi and thanks for that, I have had the car back now 24hrs and seems fine but I do have the hole in the thermostat. I am keeping a close eye on things and going a few short distance runs in both open road and heavy traffic before I do anything adventurous. I trust that on this occassion I was lucky and got away with it. I am intrigued to hear two sides of the story about thermostats. That should be a bigger issue in the same way that HG bolts have been debated.

12-16-2004, 02:26 PM	#13
Guest Guest Posts: n/a	Hello again. After all that I had the waterfall again and this time I just had to trust my instinct. So, after one weekend, three evenings of cleaning and reassembly I have a new CHG. For anyone who is interested DONT be put off by thinking this is a hard job. Get the manual and photocopy it all out into the right order as many manuals flip backwards and forwards to other chapters, get all your tools out, put the car on ramps, depressurise the fuel system, disconnect the battery, use lots of labels to attach to things and get on with it. The only thing I had a problem with was not having six fingers on each hand that were about 10inches long and with universal articulating joints. That would have made the whole job a lot easier as EVERYTHING is just so hard to get to. In the end I bought a pair of locking artery forceps and thay gave me the extra reach and grip. I bought those from a sporting store as they sell them for fishermen to get hooks out of toothy fish. The timing belt was a doddle and you dont even need to take the lower cover off. Just clamp the belt carefully against some packers before you release the tension and then lift if off the sprockets. Usual cautions apply. The turbo was a pain to get off because of the oil feed pipe location. In the end you have to make up some really long extension sockets and get it from underneath but it can be done. I decided not to have the head/block or manifolds skimmed because all were straight and flat when checked with a feeler and straight edge. The only time you need any help is to lift/drop the head. To make that easier I raised up a platform around the car with pallets so we were could be more comfortable when handling the head as it was quite high on ramps. So far the car is behaving impeccably and I will give you an update if there is one.

06-01-2005, 06:56 PM	#14
eandris Stock Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 5	Okay, I've ran out of options. I read your message on overheating and can't seem to pin point the problem. Things I've done so far: 1) Brand new radiator. 2) Removed the thermostat 3) New fan clutch 4) Added K&H Bloc Seal - Hoping it would help if I had a BHG. 5) New radiator cap I did remove the fan shroud because it was damaged but I doubt if it would overheat because of that. I've ran it for an hour and a half in the drive way. Take it for a ten minute trip on the freeway doing speeds up to 90 with no problem. Head back up the hill which is about a mile and half with about a 40 degree incline and it OVERHEATS. The temp gauge goes immediately to red and the radiator begins to bubble. No bubbling in the reservoir. I read that I could a have air lock and should burp the system. I've set it on an incline ran it for an hour with the heater on so I'm assuming that's enough though I'm still getting small bubbles when I take of the radiator cap. Also, what is the viscous fan. Just a weekend mechanic who loves his supra (87 non turbo) so please make your answers for a "mechanic dummy". Thanks for a great forum.

06-01-2005, 07:18 PM	#15
Supra GuestEXTENDOR Guest Posts: n/a	Hi, sounds like the dreaded cylinder head gasket. Sorry. I did mine as reported almost 6 months ago and all is well. Dont be afraid to have a go yourself. If you need convincing get a sniff or block test done at your local garage. That is a chemical added to the coolant. If it turns (green I think) then you have exhaust gas in the coolant. I would not mind a bet that when you do get the head off the leak is between 5 and 6. thats always the one to look for. Best regards Chris

06-02-2005, 04:56 PM	#17
eandris Stock Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 5	Thanks for the feedback. I guess I was hoping for something different. Getting a little too hot for me to be pulling the engine apart so I think I'm going to give one of these block seals a try again. I've heard several people say that these work pretty well. I know it's not the best approach but if it doesn't work I'll be forced to change the gasket anyway. Has anyone used any of the block seals? If so, any recommendations. I realize it can do damage to the engine but at the price and time it will cost me to fix it. In my case, it may be worth it.

06-02-2005, 08:45 PM	#18
KingDiamond 12psi boost Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: West Milford, NJ Posts: 357	I've used prestone sealer plenty of times, works nicely, and may i suggest for a bhg , you use the prestone sealer for big leaks.

06-18-2005, 05:15 AM	#20
eandris Stock Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 5	Well, I've given up on the quick fixes and decided to go ahead and change the head gasket. Figured I'd just buy the gasket set (head, manifolds, etc) and change all of them and the timing belt while it's apart. While I have everything taken apart, any recommendations on things I could do to either prevent additional problems later or add a little extra performance . Not looking to street race but do enjoy openinging it up once in a while. This is a non turbo 86.5. Also, I've heard several people mention steel gaskets. Any particular brand and where to purchase them would be great.