MKIII 1JZGTE Swap How To! Pic Heavy

[Travis89Turbo]

Ok Guys i finally have some time to do this 1jz how to...Thanks to my hand bein broke with 3 pins in it! (long story).

Im going to walk you through this start to finish! I have put over 5k on the swap so far! I absolutly Love it!

I am did the swap in an 89 Supra Targa Turbo! I HIGHLY suggest you do the swap with a front clip.. For many reasons- You get to see the actual Mileage (well Km), You get to see how the engine and all coponents went in the car from toyota, All fluids are left in the clip so you can see the quality of the oil, antifreeze, powersteering, etc. You will also receive the stock intercooler and pipes. plus the front bumper mount is different to fit the big jz intercooler. you will also need to change the overflow bottle. the jz one is notched out for the intercooler.. needed for aftermarket IC also. Plus you get to keep the hydraulic fan which is very effiecent more so then you would think! Plus saves $$$, It runs off of the water pump.. If you want to get rid of this or bought just an engine with out all the hyd. fan you will need to buy a 2jz water pump and get an electric fan! YOU MOST CERTAINLY NEED A FAN!

Things you need to Know before attempting swap!

Harness,
The 1jzgte did not come in a LHD car. there for there is no LHD harness! The RHD harness is too short to reach the glove box! It needs to be extended 18" It is not that difficult to do but very time consuming! If you do not kno how to solder or feel comfortable with electrical PLEASE dont attemp this part. It can cause mass confusion for trouble shooting. You can send it out to get done. There is a few people on ebay that does it. But it will cost you about $800 bones. I have pics of the steps i did to extend mine! And cost me $50 and 3 days of time. But i am an experienced aircraft electrician. And i already had an adjustable soldering iron.(not needed but better for different gauge wires)

REPLACE THE CLUTCH.
Trust me on this one... i hate to admit it but i did not and within 1500 miles it went out and had to pull the motor to replace it! It is One tight fit in there!

REPLACE VALVE SEALS.
Again do as i say not as i do! These engines sit for a long time exspecially the low mileage engines. My engine started smokin at about 3000miles started slowly then the top of the valve seal came off and slid up the valve. Now this is only about a $100 job including the tools. I have pics of mine and im gonna do a separate how to for the valve seals!

REPLACE TIMING BELT AND SERP BELT.
They are cheap. So just do it. Mine were pretty bad.


Parts You WILL need to buy! I got my stuff from driftmotion

-Mk4 throttle cable.
-Mk4 powersteering hose.. jz ps pump is on the other side.
-Clutch kit with bearings
-New motor mounts. Mine on both engines were rotted out! JUST DO IT!
-If you have a Pre 89 supra you need to buy the mounts made for your chassis to a jz enigine..also avail at driftmotion. 89+ is a direct drop in.

If i remember more stuff I will Add to this list feel free to pm me if i forgot something or you think something should be added.

So to start with the pretty pictures... This is the chassis i am dropping it in.




And the Front clip. I got mine from JRautoparts.com Prices vary on KM. Mine only had 80,000km or roughly 48k miles (LOW)






Now that you have all your parts on order its a good time to start tearing out the jz. Its actually easier to pull the motor out of the clip then it is to move the clip around. I put some mustang rims on the clip so i could move it out of the street. Everything is the same as far as pulling the motor. I suggest takin pics so you can see how it goes back together! PICS BELOW

[Travis89Turbo]

I just noticed my Pics are really small! I will try change them to bigger ones now...

Pics of jz removal. Everything went pretty smooth for removal! Nothin really special to kno!




I kno i have way to many toys! I now have a shed in the back for all those so i can actually use my garage!!


Useful pic!

[Travis89Turbo]

I lucked out.... I pulled the ecu out and found an HKS FCD and an HKS SLD installed on the ecu! They were soldered to plugs so it could be unplugged and made stock easily.

OH BTW the hks fcd is broken



Pics of the 7mgte which i have never been happier to say good bye too!


Pics of the Bay... And the evidence of why i dislike the 7m so bad shows up in a black filthy gunky paste...



A Little simple green went along way! And got my moneys worth out of my pressure washer.

[Travis89Turbo]

Now this is the part you have all been waiting for!!! The harness

Things you will need.
-Enough wire to extend the harness 18" i Cant remeber the exact size but I kno i got two sizes for the thick power wires.
The smaller gauge i used was bigger then most of the wires but i wasnt about to buy 30 diff sizes of wire! Now remeber you can Upsize wire but not downsize it! so Always go bigger not smaller!
-Soldering Iron (preferrably adjustable heat)
-Solder I used .028
-Solder flux.. Liquid is alot easier to deal with!
-Alcohol... to clean remaining flux from wires(its a corrosive)
-Heat shrink and lots of it!
-PRACTICE... Get comfortable with your soldering before starting.
-Heat gun for the heat shrink! I dont like using torches
-Its a good idea to have some solder removal wick!
-Anti wicking tweezers. you need two of them. http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Pc-Locking-STA...item35a7d14ab3

Some Pics

Now how i did it...Mainly for the ease of troubleshooting if ever needed and ease of assembling harness I separated harnes into 4 chunks of wires before cutting it.. carefully makin sure there is not multiple wires of the same color in the same bundle! then labled them 1-2-3-4 I labeled them twice with enough room to cut them in the middle.. that way when its cut both sections are labled. I also did each bundle in a different color of wire. and mad enote of what color is in which bundle.



Then ya cut it.


Now some people say to cut the harness at multiple location so it doesnt bundle up! but the fact is... it wont bundle if you solder correctly. Your solder connection should not be thicker then the wires insulater. I separated the bundles from each other and one bundle at a time i stripped the wires and slid on the heat shrink on all the wires so you dont forget one.



I labeled each and evry wire on the extension so i knew what it went to.. and i traced it when soldering to make sure i labeled it right!!! I didnt want to do this twice

[Travis89Turbo]

Then you start your soldering... i didnt take any pics of the anti wicking tweezers.


Then the first bundle completed. This is not it wrapped up completly if you twist it up how the factory does it is hardly noticable thatits been soldered


Three bundles complete with just the 4rth one left and all the signal wires from knock sensor/cam position/ crankshaft etc.


This is how i labeled the bundled wires like the crank sensor/cam etc etc



I then went back to the engine with the ecu plug end of the harness i just extended. to start soldering it back into 1 piece.. By this time you should be one hell of a soldering master! IIRC there is around 300 wires you solder!!

[Travis89Turbo]

Here is some pics of the harness soldered together!! It was a great feeling!



As you may kno the jza70 and ma70 use different plugs! I didnt want to cut my chassis plugs so i made these plug adapters for all plugs needing changed. This adapter goes from IH2 to C1 Ill attach a link with all diagrams they are even colored! it shows plug to plug.
http://1jz.com/tech/docs/wiring/

The wires hanging out the side are for A/C and the three tied together are for the Alternator which need to be soldered to chassis.




Here is the chassis cleaned up for the most part gettin ready for its new jz! I still spent abou 3 hrs after this pic was takin cleaning everything up! I like bein able to change my oil without gettin Lubed myself.


If you plan on runnin your AC Which i did cuz it gets hot down here! And nothing better then kicking someones ass while you AC is blowin on you in 105 weather. Your gonna have to pull this stud out that holds your ac compressor and replace it with a bolt cuz it hit the Top plate you have to take off the 7mgte ac compressor. You also have to notch out the powersteering bracket due to the bolt that holds the ac hoses on hit it! DO THIS BEFORE ENGINE IS IN CAR!

The stud that needs removed.

[Travis89Turbo]

Here is some of the bracket needing grinded.


you also need to grind the bolt down for the ac hose!


now your ready to drop the motor in!! Haha I wish it was that easy! It is a very tight fit! you have to take the ABS brake line cover off and separate the bottom line and tap it in about a 1/2" as it gets in the way of the back turbo!

Droppin her in! TIGHT FIT.



Finished pics!



here is the pics of where you hook up your ac wires! you only need the blue wire you unhook the blue wire out of the chassis plug under fuse box! Rememer when testin this that it has a low pressure switch so if your still out of refridgerant you wont get power to the ac magnet.

[Travis89Turbo]

Here are some more pics of the ps bracket that needs grinded for AC




And some pics of the ecu up in the glove box! fits like a glove


Pic of the emblem off of the JZA70


Here you can see how tight the jza70 IC fits in and why you need the front bumper brace you can see to the right!

[Travis89Turbo]

Thats all the typing I have in me for one day! As i remember stuff I will add to this and again if anyone else needs more info on anything please let me kno!

Travis

[91ma70]

Vote for a Sticky!!!