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hpf are little more broad whereas ss is strictly mk3 supras |
what about lexus afm and 550cc injectors ya we might not need them like the turbos but more full usually equals more power just like changing the carb's on the old school muscle cars :) that and the most horsepower for your buck would be nitrous but only recommend like 50-75 shot at the most and a dry one at that and only for the "track" lol :gotnos:
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the nitrous system is still the best bang for ur buck well considering the $:HP ratio but it is abusive to ur pistons ur heads and ur internals they say a 75 shot of wet can be handled by a stock 6cyl engine but did they say it can be handled by a stock 20 yr old 6 cylinder engine? |
Probly a low milage one and i said dry i was told dry is easyer on your engine then wet and dry shot is so much easyer to install then the wet shot just depends i guess if i buy one im going to look for a wet shot and get me a lexus afm and 550cc injects
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still, even with the 550's
its the pistons that im concerned about i really dont wanna see a downed supra anymore |
sorry about the late post i just bought my supra last month, but if you want power port and polish the heads and get a good valve job. that is the most bang for your buck. come -on you guys sound like amateurs.
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you know you can (on n/a cars) wire in a ford coilpack(msd) in place of the stocker and gain 8hp. emissions is another 8. replacing stock pressure regulator with an adustable brings about 6. lexas maf another 4. pulling off the cat is about 9-12 depending on your engine set up. 3" exaust(you can build it yourself for under 100 bucks, just run it straight back and straight from the rear subframe to the corner of bumper) picks up about12+ hp.plus so many other things to name later
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Amateurs.
I'm just going to over look that for the common good of this comunity. I agree with the port and polish method. I mean what's it costing right now 300 to 500 bucks. I just spent that much having my head restored. Or I will be in a few days. These na cars..., every little something anything that can be done makes a huge difference. My most celebrated mod??? AC delete. Takes an hour to do and the auto is an easy 45lbs. lighter. I had to install my own blaster coil. walbro fuel pump. eibach springs and tokico shocks. New starter, alternator, timing belt, idle tensioner pulley, upper gasket set. Front and rear jic strut rods. Rear seat delete. MSD 8,5mm plug wires and denso iridium u groove plugs. New water pump New power stearing pump new clutch new rear main seal. I mean I guess there are degrees of amateur but jeez man c'mon. Stop the hate. Oh and that big box in my garage has a carbon fiber hood in it. I'll smoke a stock 7mge when I get this beast roaring again. Nothing extravagent for exhaust, a stock pipe and a 14 inch glass pack. Cause I'm a cowboy like that. You understand me. I have turned all of the wrenches on this project auto thus far. I'm the first one to say I am not a mechanic. But I have the common logic and the apptitude to work on my own 7m engine. AND ya, I get by with a little help from my friends at times. These guys here make sure I am turning the right wrenches, when I am unsure. |
they still make the DT headers for our car..there labled under the 85 modle but say 7mge on the page
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/brcr7mca.html orderd them yesterday, will be here monday dt headers are the best in the business. but everyone knows if your looking for huge hp gains, go turbo its the only way. when i first got my supra i had the same dream, turbo charged beast but reality hit and i couldnt aford something like that, being a college student and 1full time job. plus if i had bought a turbo engine, i would have wanted to upgrade the turbo,downpipe ect.. so it would have costed even more and it allways does. |
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i agree, before any mods install a MHG. don't listen to that one reply you received "don't worry about your gasket". the 7M is an awesome engine except for the gasket. stock internals can handle 500hp, and it sounds like eventually you'll be looking for more power. i should know because the only internals on my car are AEM gears, and an HKS 1.2 MHG. don't worry about how much time you have to build your ride. you're very young, and have plenty of time. it took me 8 years to get my car the way i like-it. by replacing your gasket now, you're premptively saving yourself trouble down the road. by the way, don't forget about the ARP studs. one addition you can safely change is an air intake. checkout a list of my mods on tunerfriends.com username is "iluvmy88supra"
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all these mods your talkin about, and you missed 1 cruicial one. tut tut
anyone ever think of the Driveshaft? get a Carbon Fibre Drive Shaft. theyre lighter and give you more RWHP which is more important than Enging HP right? i mean come on, you can have 500 Engine HP but who gives a damn if your only gettin say 200 RWHP? IMO CF Drive Shafts are an excellent upgrade with 2 upsides and 1 downside :P +RWHP +Weight Reduc, But -$$ |
if your looking for Good Spark Plugs, Allow me to suggest Bosch 4's
an excellent plug, if you have the money Reg price about $12+ each. i <3 working @ parts store bought mine for $6 :D |
in my opinion....ngk iridiums are the best you can buy for the supras...they will perform better any bosh..and will last up to 90k miles or more..
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I've heard of the CF drive shaft being stronger then the aluminum ones.
I didn't read through this thread. But a BIC DDP 3inch is worth the money. My car feels way better with the DDP mainly right before boost and keeps the power going all the way through |
does anybody know the difference in performances between parallel or sequential turbo set-ups? do they have different torque curves?
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The first thing you should modify IMHO is your I-H-E, meaning try changing the Intake, Headers, and Exhausts. It will give you some extra power I believe. Good luck!
__________________ Check out my new Toyota Truck Parts and Jeep Commanche Parts. Coolness! |
you want my honest opionion. gut it the hell out. you want cheap ill give you cheap. rip out everything you dont need. heat, air,interior, powersteering, seats, and get rid of all that weight, you want more, then get rid of it, every 100 pounds is a tenth of a second faster, and believe me between all that sound detining tar and all that weight. you will be starting quicker off the line, and take a shit too! that helps every pound is a key elimante into winning, if you dont want or have cash to spend. two of the heaviest things on that car is the hood and driver seat. damn them automatic seats. thats my best advice if you want to be going faster without spending alot of money.
another thing is. dont go for all that performance get shocks and springs, dont buy coilovers unless your track use only, i recomend tokico shocks and eibach springs, and then sway bars, you can get all this for about 550 600 bucks, and its worth it. make the ride handle before making it so fast you cant handle it |
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When i first bought my supra (it's an 88) it had a very small exhast leak that i decided to get fixed. Even though it was a small leak it was a enough to make my car sound like crap. For about $130 i got a custom exhast that not only looked and sounded way better, it sure felt like i was getting more horse power too. Im not sure if i had any thing blocking or resisting my exhast but i think the $130 was well worth it.
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i'll be doing the CAI next if i can find a good write up so I can just but the right angled tubes from the store, then possibly headers. |
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I have a 87 NA also that I'm trying to make a little faster. What's an EGR valve? And an AFM? ThankX!!!
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I was told that if you use a MAF out of a 92-96 Lexus GS400 it gains a good amount of HP paired with a boost controller. I was told that 16-17 PSI was capable safely...? Anyone tried this?
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7mgte
anyone know where i could possibly buy a new fan shroud for an 87 turbo supra?
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Hey, does anyone know what, where, or how to get custom carbonfiber parts for the supra mk3. like roof, doors, and stuff like that
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im pretty much in the same situation. Anyone know of a quite exhaust that can still roar when i floor it in my 89 turbo. Another question if i add a cold air intake, would i have to retune the car??? Also what is the max power i can put inot the car without haveing to replace the gasket or forge the pistons?
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I have this on my 1j, can't tell its on at idle or cruise. Step on it hard and it sounds mean. It doesn't look like the picture either, its an oval canister. |
there is all kinds of stuff you can do inexpensively !
Check out what I have in mine !
most of this you can find on ebay ! |
nITROUS FAKE? I DONT THINK SO ! LOL
cOME ON GUYS ! LOL Nitrous is the ultimate to top off your ride when youve maxed out all the power you gona get out of it !
Like mine for example . Its f...en fast and when im about to win or someone thinks they are going to blow right by me,,,, i think not ! You hit that NOS and its bye bye Baby ! What a rush ! Power when you need it ! Otherwise, a few bolt on inexpensive way to build some power, Port Polish the head, do a 3 angle valve job, get an exhaust manifold or header with a cat back exhaust and some cam gears, maybe upgrade the fuel pump to walbro255 lph a fuel pressure regulator, lightwheight flywheel, light rims. Upgrade the fuel rail and injectors... I think this would be a great start ! Good luck and hang in there. these Supras are fun ! |
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does anyone know a good place to pick up a MSD system and a writeup on how to wire one into a 1988 GA70 supra with a 1g-gte engine.
thanks |
hmm
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not sure but unless the engin has a different compression than the JDM one it should be better to run higher octane. they are marked as premium only and premium in japan is about 97 octane at most gas stations.
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light on dash
there is a orange light on the left side of my dash to the laft of the coolant temperature gauge, the car is a 88 NA. Does anybodu know what this light means
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brad88supra-
First, congrats on your first post. Just a friendly reminder here to remember to post questions that don't have something to do with the current thread in their own post instead of "thread-jacking" another thread. Second, that light is the low coolant level light. There is a sensor in the bottom of the overflow bottle (which is in front of the radiator) that measures the coolant level. If the reservoir does not have coolant (or enough) in it, that light on your dash will turn on. |
ok, ill make sure to put some in it, thanks for your help
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Nothing crazy
Hi all,
I have an '87 NA MKIII which is currently all-stock, has about 90,000 miles on it. Previous owner didn't drive it much. Anyway, I use it as a commuter car (albeit a fun one), not looking to race or anything like that. I notice that it takes about 8+ seconds to go from 0-60, which seems kinda slow (I know, it's an NA, but still). If all I want to do is basically get its performance back up to par as when it was new (a 200bhp inline 6 shouldn't be too shabby, right?), what parts should I be looking to replace / refurbish / improve? Money's tight so I'm preferably looking at some kind of multi-month plan of purchases and installs, and would therefore also appreciate some kind of idea as to what order these improvements should be made. Appreciate the tips in advance! |
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