Blown Head Gasket Symptoms! - Page 2

Dejvid1785 · 01-29-2006, 12:35 AM

Thanx for the help guys, i will find out tomorrow what the deal is. I have a whole day ahead of me. I will let yall know how it turned out.

Dejvid1785 · 02-04-2006, 12:52 AM

Its a blown head gasket!!! So i get to tear it all apart, my first time doing it, if anyone has any pointers or any kind of advice i would appreciate it.

stumpjumper · 02-05-2006, 03:30 AM

There are a lot of posts on this as this is a common problem. You MUST have the head milled and make sure the block surface is extra clean from past gasket material. Check for warpage and cracks on the block surface as well as the head. Overlooking this could cause another BHG. You will be replacing more than just the head gasket, i.e. the EGR gaskets. Buy a gasket kit. Keep track of the bolts, and take notice what connectors go where. Have patience. Good luck

Dejvid1785 · 02-07-2006, 02:54 AM

Thanx for the help! The only thing i need to know is where to order some ARP studs and bolts, it might be a stupid question, but its better to ask than to be sorry!

supra41086 · 04-06-2006, 09:35 PM

I have the same promblem whith my 88 supra.I cant figure it out???

toyosup · 04-07-2006, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dejvid1785

I don't have any smoke out of the exhaust or milky oil, but i am losing coolant!! Could that still be thermostat or something else? My temp gauge never stays still it sits up top showing that its over heating but the car isn't over heating and is driveable and suddenly it jumps back down, if anybody knows answer me. Thanx!

i just had same think...losing coolant,....the engine forcing coolant to the overwlow, and dump it out tru the drain house on the side of overflow...this is the gaket...maybe not broken, but definately bend around the rings on one ore more cilenders

toyosup · 04-07-2006, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dejvid1785

Its a blown head gasket!!! So i get to tear it all apart, my first time doing it, if anyone has any pointers or any kind of advice i would appreciate it.

make shure you mark the valve spacers were each one goes...they are diferent thiknes, and belongs to specific cilinder...i got my messtup once, and loose all the power

gabit · 04-09-2006, 04:36 PM

I think the most common early head gasket problem is from the combustion chamber to a water passage. Think of it this way, the combustion pressures are far greater and hotter than either the oil/water pressures/temps while the engine is running...remove the radiator cap while the car is running, and see if there are any bubbles in the coolant... if "yes" ,increase the rpm, and see if they get worse...if you don't have water in the oil, you can probably seal it with any of the "solutions" they sell for fixing this type of gasket failure before the combustion gasses erode the gasket to an oil passage.

luggage · 04-24-2006, 11:12 PM

Looking for confirmation: I'm fixing a non-turbo and don't plan to do any major performance modifications (if any) to it. Is a non-metal head gasket sufficient (Felpro)? Are bolts sufficient? I'm assuming it had bolts from the factory and they will be fine if torqued properly. I mean new bolts, not the originals.

Now that I think about it: One of the reasons I want bolts is so I don't have to take the engine out. Wouldn't I just be able to insert studs into the top with the head in place to prevent having to remove the engine?

I see tons of posts about metal head gaskets but none about plain replacement gaskets.

rnoswal · 05-03-2006, 10:49 PM

Plain gaskets work fine on an N/A engine. I put one on my daughters car along with ARP head studs and I think it will last a very long time. When you put the head back on after putting studs in, just leave the last 2 studs out like I did and you can tilt the head up from the front and get it to clear the firewall. Then just put the last two studs back in the torque it down.

You just want to make sur the studs go all the way into the block, which I noticed from my last car, that they didn't go all the way. They bottomed out but there were still a few threads left. You have to do it the one way because of the allen hole at one end of the studs. But it is working and my daughter ahs been driving it around for quite a while now.

Russ

01-29-2006, 12:35 AM	#11
Dejvid1785 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 193	Thanx for the help guys, i will find out tomorrow what the deal is. I have a whole day ahead of me. I will let yall know how it turned out. __________________ 88 Targa: Exhaust, Headers, Intake

02-04-2006, 12:52 AM	#12
Dejvid1785 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 193	Its a blown head gasket!!! So i get to tear it all apart, my first time doing it, if anyone has any pointers or any kind of advice i would appreciate it. __________________ 88 Targa: Exhaust, Headers, Intake

02-07-2006, 02:54 AM	#14
Dejvid1785 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 193	Thanx for the help! The only thing i need to know is where to order some ARP studs and bolts, it might be a stupid question, but its better to ask than to be sorry! __________________ 88 Targa: Exhaust, Headers, Intake

04-24-2006, 11:12 PM	#19
luggage Stock Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Baltimore County, MD Posts: 16	Looking for confirmation: I'm fixing a non-turbo and don't plan to do any major performance modifications (if any) to it. Is a non-metal head gasket sufficient (Felpro)? Are bolts sufficient? I'm assuming it had bolts from the factory and they will be fine if torqued properly. I mean new bolts, not the originals. Now that I think about it: One of the reasons I want bolts is so I don't have to take the engine out. Wouldn't I just be able to insert studs into the top with the head in place to prevent having to remove the engine? I see tons of posts about metal head gaskets but none about plain replacement gaskets. Last edited by luggage; 04-24-2006 at 11:15 PM.

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02-05-2006, 03:30 AM	#13
stumpjumper 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 74	There are a lot of posts on this as this is a common problem. You MUST have the head milled and make sure the block surface is extra clean from past gasket material. Check for warpage and cracks on the block surface as well as the head. Overlooking this could cause another BHG. You will be replacing more than just the head gasket, i.e. the EGR gaskets. Buy a gasket kit. Keep track of the bolts, and take notice what connectors go where. Have patience. Good luck

04-06-2006, 09:35 PM	#15
supra41086 Stock Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: TN Posts: 2	I have the same promblem whith my 88 supra.I cant figure it out???

04-09-2006, 04:36 PM	#18
gabit Stock Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 5	I think the most common early head gasket problem is from the combustion chamber to a water passage. Think of it this way, the combustion pressures are far greater and hotter than either the oil/water pressures/temps while the engine is running...remove the radiator cap while the car is running, and see if there are any bubbles in the coolant... if "yes" ,increase the rpm, and see if they get worse...if you don't have water in the oil, you can probably seal it with any of the "solutions" they sell for fixing this type of gasket failure before the combustion gasses erode the gasket to an oil passage.

05-03-2006, 10:49 PM	#20
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Plain gaskets work fine on an N/A engine. I put one on my daughters car along with ARP head studs and I think it will last a very long time. When you put the head back on after putting studs in, just leave the last 2 studs out like I did and you can tilt the head up from the front and get it to clear the firewall. Then just put the last two studs back in the torque it down. You just want to make sur the studs go all the way into the block, which I noticed from my last car, that they didn't go all the way. They bottomed out but there were still a few threads left. You have to do it the one way because of the allen hole at one end of the studs. But it is working and my daughter ahs been driving it around for quite a while now. Russ