Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics - Page 13

IHateHacks · 03-12-2007, 06:03 PM

Ok back on topic now, It's been very warm here today and I got some more things done. But I have questions that maybe someone, that has replaced their headgasket themselves, could answer.

TSRM does not list a torque spec for the EGR valve nuts (where it bolts to the head, actually the lower intake) EGR bolts (where it bolts to the upper intake) or the water outlet housing bolt and nuts.

So I used an inch pound torque wrench because aluminum is nothing to f-around with as it will strip out even with a ft lb torque wrench.

I torqued the EGR nuts to 144 inch pounds (12 ft/lbs). I torqued the water outlet housing bolt and 2 nuts to 132 inch pounds (11 ft/lbs), now they are the same size nuts/studs, 12mm size nut and 8mm size stud, but we all know studs are much stronger than bolts so that is why I did that. Now all of these bolts/studs/nuts are the same size as the intake manifold bolts/studs/nuts and the TSRM says 13 ft/lbs for them yet it says 9 ft/lbs for 8mm diameter bolts in the back of the TSRM where it gives general torque specs for specific bolt sizes and strengths.

These parts are very important to have torqued correctly seeing as pressurized coolant and exhaust gas pass through them, I don't know why Toyota just forgot to list the torque spec.

My question is what did you (anybody that has done it before) torque these bolts/studs to?

IHateHacks · 03-14-2007, 01:05 AM

So I guess nobody has ever taken the water outlet housing or the EGR valve off their car before?

It's not really a big deal, just thought I'd ask and see how on point this site is.

If anybody would know, it would probably be Bill UK, or suprra_girl.

Bill UK · 03-14-2007, 06:36 PM

Apologies for not responding sooner, I'm in the process of changing over to broadband from Internet dial-up, had a few problems. I only used the torque wrench for head bolts and internal parts of the engine. I would often just go by experience and common sense, taking in account the material and size of thread. It sounds if you have a good mechanical mind, I can only suggest go by what you feel is right.

IHateHacks · 03-14-2007, 07:48 PM

Thanks Bill UK. I guess I'm just anal about making sure everything is on tight.

I just finished putting the whole intake manifold side back on. Torqued the intake bolts/nuts to 156in/lbs (13ft/lbs), ISC valve to 108 in/lbs (9ft/lbs) and the 10mm EGR bolts to 96in/lbs (8ft/lbs).

marc · 03-14-2007, 09:13 PM

looks so clean. im a lil further than halfway done with mine. just needa pull the exhaust manifold and stuff off. i hope it comes out looking liek that

IHateHacks · 03-15-2007, 01:41 AM

I spent about as much time cleaning the parts when they were off as I did actually wrenching. And they are so clean thanks to about 10 cans of brake cleaner.

I now have only one more question for Bill UK. I remember you saying that you messed up and didn't pull the block drain when you removed the head and coolant got down into the oil pan. I did the same thing but I am planning on changing the oil and filter before I start it. Its been sitting in there since January. Did you mean you messed up and ran the motor like that? Or did you change the oil and still have a problem?

Bill UK · 03-15-2007, 10:56 PM

Whilst fitting the head back on I drained the oil and left it draining over night, the next day I poured a few pints of oil in with the drain plug still removed just to flush out any water or carbon in the oil gallery’s.I changed the oil and this time the filter after about 50 miles, no signs of white residue in the oil filler cap, which you would normally associate with water in the oil, so I guess I must have flushed out any water before I started it up.

IHateHacks · 03-16-2007, 01:08 AM

Thanks again!!! You're the man!!

88Tsupra · 03-16-2007, 08:33 AM

oh so i just read tonys post and it says if the oil looks foamy dats a sign of water jacket to oil passage equals BHG...well i checked my oil last time and it had some foam on it buh when i check it later it wasnt htere no more..the car doesnt show n e other sign of bhg...unless oil on top of spark plug is a sign..my car is sluggish buh dats due to the clutch wearing itself out badly.....theres no other way around it buh to get a new HG is there...and one last question i did my research but cant find how much torque does the stock clutch handle..unless i am wrong and kwnate really did write that it can handle 275torque ty...sry didnt mean to write 400 troque earlier

IHateHacks · 03-21-2007, 02:16 AM

Installed brand new NGK Iridium IX's torqued to 144in/lbs (12ft/lbs). I know the TSRM says 13ft/lbs but I don't trust Toyota's aluminum anymore. It's really an inferior quality aluminum, but thats another story for another thread that I will make at a later time.

All I have to do is drain the oil (hard to do with a foot of snow on the ground), install the radiator, fan and turbo and I can fire it up. I will let you guys know what happens as soon as I can.

03-14-2007, 09:13 PM	#125
marc 12psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: salem mass Posts: 329	looks so clean. im a lil further than halfway done with mine. just needa pull the exhaust manifold and stuff off. i hope it comes out looking liek that __________________ nothing but the best -mods- so far K&N intake fipk 3" megan downpipe 3"turbo elbow 4 washers on the wastegate highflow cat short shifter 89+ front bumper, pic soon to come many more upgrades soon

03-16-2007, 08:33 AM	#129
88Tsupra 12psi boost Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: long beach, CA Posts: 252	oh so i just read tonys post and it says if the oil looks foamy dats a sign of water jacket to oil passage equals BHG...well i checked my oil last time and it had some foam on it buh when i check it later it wasnt htere no more..the car doesnt show n e other sign of bhg...unless oil on top of spark plug is a sign..my car is sluggish buh dats due to the clutch wearing itself out badly.....theres no other way around it buh to get a new HG is there...and one last question i did my research but cant find how much torque does the stock clutch handle..unless i am wrong and kwnate really did write that it can handle 275torque ty...sry didnt mean to write 400 troque earlier __________________ 88turbo targa-white original Pin Stripe custom intake-Tenzo filter.....Momo racing seats and steering wheel... apexi exhaust tip-custom 3" piping. Replaced with RSR GT II NGK plug and wires HID conversion head lights HKS Turbo Timer Type-1 (in black) Tial BOV BIC DDP Last edited by 88Tsupra; 03-17-2007 at 04:30 PM.

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03-12-2007, 06:03 PM	#121
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Ok back on topic now, It's been very warm here today and I got some more things done. But I have questions that maybe someone, that has replaced their headgasket themselves, could answer. TSRM does not list a torque spec for the EGR valve nuts (where it bolts to the head, actually the lower intake) EGR bolts (where it bolts to the upper intake) or the water outlet housing bolt and nuts. So I used an inch pound torque wrench because aluminum is nothing to f-around with as it will strip out even with a ft lb torque wrench. I torqued the EGR nuts to 144 inch pounds (12 ft/lbs). I torqued the water outlet housing bolt and 2 nuts to 132 inch pounds (11 ft/lbs), now they are the same size nuts/studs, 12mm size nut and 8mm size stud, but we all know studs are much stronger than bolts so that is why I did that. Now all of these bolts/studs/nuts are the same size as the intake manifold bolts/studs/nuts and the TSRM says 13 ft/lbs for them yet it says 9 ft/lbs for 8mm diameter bolts in the back of the TSRM where it gives general torque specs for specific bolt sizes and strengths. These parts are very important to have torqued correctly seeing as pressurized coolant and exhaust gas pass through them, I don't know why Toyota just forgot to list the torque spec. My question is what did you (anybody that has done it before) torque these bolts/studs to?

03-14-2007, 01:05 AM	#122
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	So I guess nobody has ever taken the water outlet housing or the EGR valve off their car before? It's not really a big deal, just thought I'd ask and see how on point this site is. If anybody would know, it would probably be Bill UK, or suprra_girl.

03-14-2007, 06:36 PM	#123
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Apologies for not responding sooner, I'm in the process of changing over to broadband from Internet dial-up, had a few problems. I only used the torque wrench for head bolts and internal parts of the engine. I would often just go by experience and common sense, taking in account the material and size of thread. It sounds if you have a good mechanical mind, I can only suggest go by what you feel is right.

03-14-2007, 07:48 PM	#124
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Thanks Bill UK. I guess I'm just anal about making sure everything is on tight. I just finished putting the whole intake manifold side back on. Torqued the intake bolts/nuts to 156in/lbs (13ft/lbs), ISC valve to 108 in/lbs (9ft/lbs) and the 10mm EGR bolts to 96in/lbs (8ft/lbs).

03-15-2007, 01:41 AM	#126
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	I spent about as much time cleaning the parts when they were off as I did actually wrenching. And they are so clean thanks to about 10 cans of brake cleaner. I now have only one more question for Bill UK. I remember you saying that you messed up and didn't pull the block drain when you removed the head and coolant got down into the oil pan. I did the same thing but I am planning on changing the oil and filter before I start it. Its been sitting in there since January. Did you mean you messed up and ran the motor like that? Or did you change the oil and still have a problem?

03-15-2007, 10:56 PM	#127
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Whilst fitting the head back on I drained the oil and left it draining over night, the next day I poured a few pints of oil in with the drain plug still removed just to flush out any water or carbon in the oil gallery’s.I changed the oil and this time the filter after about 50 miles, no signs of white residue in the oil filler cap, which you would normally associate with water in the oil, so I guess I must have flushed out any water before I started it up.

03-16-2007, 01:08 AM	#128
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Thanks again!!! You're the man!!

03-21-2007, 02:16 AM	#130
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Installed brand new NGK Iridium IX's torqued to 144in/lbs (12ft/lbs). I know the TSRM says 13ft/lbs but I don't trust Toyota's aluminum anymore. It's really an inferior quality aluminum, but thats another story for another thread that I will make at a later time. All I have to do is drain the oil (hard to do with a foot of snow on the ground), install the radiator, fan and turbo and I can fire it up. I will let you guys know what happens as soon as I can.