Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics - Page 16

IHateHacks · 04-07-2007, 01:45 AM

The white one is mine.

You really scared the shit out of me Dan.

And we were talking today about supras and their head gaskets and how stout the 7M really is. Pretty much every stock supra head gasket is blown, EVERY single one. And yet the motors will continue to run 50K, 60K even 100K miles. So if you have a stock head gasket with stock bolts, you can bet your life that it is blown.

yama1 · 04-07-2007, 02:44 PM

Dude, I had the same problem

No help really with tool support. The impacts don't work.

I ended up pulling the starter and wedging one of my long pry bars in the teeth to hold the crank. Granted I had the motor out at the time so it was easier.
Just use a 1/2" 19mm with a long bar and it will break loose pretty easily. The flywheel is much larger, so the torque on the tooth is not a real issue, but be sure you have good surface contact and not a point load.

Hope this helps out.

No need for the SST, Waste of money.

yama1 · 04-07-2007, 02:46 PM

my bad, I didn't realize there were many more replys after the crank pulley removal. Whoops

88Tsupra · 04-07-2007, 04:36 PM

hey how much does it cost to resurface and lap both top and bottom block...and one more question my idle is funny i know my timing is off because the last owner retarded the shit out of it..but i got it to idle at 900rpm buh on cold nights itll idle around 1200-1100 im thinkin my HG is going bad now

Just to say the last previous owner is a machanic and he said he replaced it with a metal gasket but my concern is that hes lieing

IHateHacks · 04-08-2007, 03:36 AM

yama1- Thanks for the input (about 2 months too late lol) thats exactly what I did, prybar in the flywheel worked so F'ing good. The intake manifold was off so it was easy to stick a prybar in there and see what the F*ck I was doing.

88Tsupra- I paid $200 for all my machine work (if you cared to read this entire thread and see my price break downs) which included a valve adjustment, cleaning, checking for cracks/warpage, planed, and welding and rethreading exhaust manifold stud threads. If you just get the head cleaned and planed it will not cost more than $80, $100 MAX any shop that charges you more than that for a plane and cleaning is ripping you off. Block is a totally different story, I have no clue how much it would cost but if you are going to have a machine shop hit the block surface, since the engine will be out of the car and completly stripped, you're better off totally building the engine: rods, pistons the whole 9.

My only advice to your other problems is to set your base ignition timing and maybe start your own thread, no sense jacking this one as it is 15+ pages long and I'd bet not half the people that look at this thread read EVERY post word for word.

IHateHacks · 04-11-2007, 01:56 PM

Little update: I was washing my car the other day, vacuumed the whole interior, and detailed the exterior (inside of the doors, under the hatch, etc) and when I was done I just, for no particular reason, looked under the car to make sure nothing was leaking. And sure enough, my downpipe is completely covered in oil. At first I thought it was water since I just washed it, but nope it was engine oil. At first I started flipping out, panicking, trying to think where it was coming from while I dug out my hydraulic jack. So I climb under there and its getting on the downpipe via the downpipe brace. So I further climb under there and I pinpoint it to the turbo oil return pipe, where it bolts to the block. Now I distinctly remember torqueing those 2 nuts to 108in/lbs, just like the TSRM and the Haynes manual said. It was a bitch to fit a torque wrench down there, but I did, and I remember doing it. So I proceed to take the turbo heat shield and dipstick back out so I can try and tighten them a little more. And those motherf*ckers turned another 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn!! TSRM is a lying piece of crap. I was so pissed. The TSRM says in bold letters on page EM-37 "Install oil pipe, 9ft/lbs" Now that is for the oil pipe to turbo nuts, which I did and that wasn't leaking at all. Then on page EM-38 for the oil pipe to block: "torque the oil pipe union bolt and flange nuts" Bolt 25ft/lbs (I did that and it was fine no leaks on the feed line) Nut 9ft/lbs which is WRONG. It should be: torque "as tight as you can get it". Because actually I tightened them once, drove it and it was still leaking so I had to get in there again and I just gorilla'd those f*ckers as tight as I could. Needless to say its fine now. I think I'm going to write my own TSRM with torque values for those nuts, the water outlet housing, EGR bolts and nuts, ECT sensor and a real life solution to how to get the crank pulley off. It just pisses me off that I spent $125 on a manual for this car and it 1. doesn't give you all the torque specs and 2. on the ones it does, half of them are wrong. A little side note, the O2 housing to turbo nuts, the TSRM says 38 ft/lbs and the Haynes says 32ft/lbs. Then, it gives you the torque spec on the turbo to exhaust manifold nuts, 33ft/lbs, Yeah I'd like to see anyone get a torque wrench on those nuts. Its impossible. Maybe if you had one of those torque wrench adaptor wrenches (like you use on dirtbike engines) and then you would have to do all kinds of calculations to find out what to set the torque wrench to, to get 33ft/lbs. So they give you torque values where you can't use them, but where it matters they just leave you hanging. I can go on and on with pointing out the TSRM's flaws but I'm sure you are all sick of my bitching so I'll stop now.

On a lighter note, it was a beautiful morning and I just loved how the light hit my car so I just had to take a pic and post it. Makes me thankful for what I have.

86toySupra · 04-17-2007, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Just tried using a 1/2" IR titanium series impact and it still won't come off. This has got to be a joke. Tomarrow morning I'm using a 120psi (instead of 90psi) 750 ft/lbs rated impact gun. All of the other guns were rated up to 90psi max. If that doesn't work I'll have to bite the bullet and buy the SST's. I wasted too much time and effort trying to save a few bucks.

Except for the starter method, how does everyone else loosen their crank bolt?

And don't gimme the put in gear ebrake on stand on the brakes either because yea that doesn't work at all. Crank still spins.

your gana have to
1 do the put in gear method * but use a impact wrench so it use's more pressure than ur ratchit
2 lock up the motor somehow with the starter

IHateHacks · 04-17-2007, 12:51 PM

Wow.

The job is done, its been done for about a month. Care to read past the first page? And no, putting the car in gear with an air wrench still doesn't work. And yes, I have more torqueing power with my hands than with any air gun, so, wrong again.

Lock up the motor with the starter?

1J 2J · 04-25-2007, 08:17 PM

hey how u guys doing ,7m there is no cure for the head gasket

kwnate · 04-25-2007, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1J 2J

hey how u guys doing ,7m there is no cure for the head gasket

Moron.....

04-07-2007, 02:44 PM	#152
yama1 Stock Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NEWNAN Posts: 5	crank pulley removal Dude, I had the same problem No help really with tool support. The impacts don't work. I ended up pulling the starter and wedging one of my long pry bars in the teeth to hold the crank. Granted I had the motor out at the time so it was easier. Just use a 1/2" 19mm with a long bar and it will break loose pretty easily. The flywheel is much larger, so the torque on the tooth is not a real issue, but be sure you have good surface contact and not a point load. Hope this helps out. No need for the SST, Waste of money.

04-07-2007, 04:36 PM	#154
88Tsupra 12psi boost Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: long beach, CA Posts: 252	hey how much does it cost to resurface and lap both top and bottom block...and one more question my idle is funny i know my timing is off because the last owner retarded the shit out of it..but i got it to idle at 900rpm buh on cold nights itll idle around 1200-1100 im thinkin my HG is going bad now Just to say the last previous owner is a machanic and he said he replaced it with a metal gasket but my concern is that hes lieing __________________ 88turbo targa-white original Pin Stripe custom intake-Tenzo filter.....Momo racing seats and steering wheel... apexi exhaust tip-custom 3" piping. Replaced with RSR GT II NGK plug and wires HID conversion head lights HKS Turbo Timer Type-1 (in black) Tial BOV BIC DDP

04-25-2007, 08:17 PM	#159
1J 2J Stock Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: canada Posts: 17	the good old 7m hey how u guys doing ,7m there is no cure for the head gasket

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04-07-2007, 01:45 AM	#151
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	The white one is mine. You really scared the shit out of me Dan. And we were talking today about supras and their head gaskets and how stout the 7M really is. Pretty much every stock supra head gasket is blown, EVERY single one. And yet the motors will continue to run 50K, 60K even 100K miles. So if you have a stock head gasket with stock bolts, you can bet your life that it is blown.

04-07-2007, 02:46 PM	#153
yama1 Stock Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NEWNAN Posts: 5	my bad, I didn't realize there were many more replys after the crank pulley removal. Whoops

04-08-2007, 03:36 AM	#155
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	yama1- Thanks for the input (about 2 months too late lol) thats exactly what I did, prybar in the flywheel worked so F'ing good. The intake manifold was off so it was easy to stick a prybar in there and see what the F*ck I was doing. 88Tsupra- I paid $200 for all my machine work (if you cared to read this entire thread and see my price break downs) which included a valve adjustment, cleaning, checking for cracks/warpage, planed, and welding and rethreading exhaust manifold stud threads. If you just get the head cleaned and planed it will not cost more than $80, $100 MAX any shop that charges you more than that for a plane and cleaning is ripping you off. Block is a totally different story, I have no clue how much it would cost but if you are going to have a machine shop hit the block surface, since the engine will be out of the car and completly stripped, you're better off totally building the engine: rods, pistons the whole 9. My only advice to your other problems is to set your base ignition timing and maybe start your own thread, no sense jacking this one as it is 15+ pages long and I'd bet not half the people that look at this thread read EVERY post word for word.

04-11-2007, 01:56 PM	#156
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Little update: I was washing my car the other day, vacuumed the whole interior, and detailed the exterior (inside of the doors, under the hatch, etc) and when I was done I just, for no particular reason, looked under the car to make sure nothing was leaking. And sure enough, my downpipe is completely covered in oil. At first I thought it was water since I just washed it, but nope it was engine oil. At first I started flipping out, panicking, trying to think where it was coming from while I dug out my hydraulic jack. So I climb under there and its getting on the downpipe via the downpipe brace. So I further climb under there and I pinpoint it to the turbo oil return pipe, where it bolts to the block. Now I distinctly remember torqueing those 2 nuts to 108in/lbs, just like the TSRM and the Haynes manual said. It was a bitch to fit a torque wrench down there, but I did, and I remember doing it. So I proceed to take the turbo heat shield and dipstick back out so I can try and tighten them a little more. And those motherfckers turned another 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn!! TSRM is a lying piece of crap. I was so pissed. The TSRM says in bold letters on page EM-37 "Install oil pipe, 9ft/lbs" Now that is for the oil pipe to turbo nuts, which I did and that wasn't leaking at all. Then on page EM-38 for the oil pipe to block: "torque the oil pipe union bolt and flange nuts" Bolt 25ft/lbs (I did that and it was fine no leaks on the feed line) Nut 9ft/lbs which is WRONG. It should be: torque "as tight as you can get it". Because actually I tightened them once, drove it and it was still leaking so I had to get in there again and I just gorilla'd those fckers as tight as I could. Needless to say its fine now. I think I'm going to write my own TSRM with torque values for those nuts, the water outlet housing, EGR bolts and nuts, ECT sensor and a real life solution to how to get the crank pulley off. It just pisses me off that I spent $125 on a manual for this car and it 1. doesn't give you all the torque specs and 2. on the ones it does, half of them are wrong. A little side note, the O2 housing to turbo nuts, the TSRM says 38 ft/lbs and the Haynes says 32ft/lbs. Then, it gives you the torque spec on the turbo to exhaust manifold nuts, 33ft/lbs, Yeah I'd like to see anyone get a torque wrench on those nuts. Its impossible. Maybe if you had one of those torque wrench adaptor wrenches (like you use on dirtbike engines) and then you would have to do all kinds of calculations to find out what to set the torque wrench to, to get 33ft/lbs. So they give you torque values where you can't use them, but where it matters they just leave you hanging. I can go on and on with pointing out the TSRM's flaws but I'm sure you are all sick of my bitching so I'll stop now. On a lighter note, it was a beautiful morning and I just loved how the light hit my car so I just had to take a pic and post it. Makes me thankful for what I have.

04-17-2007, 12:51 PM	#158
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Wow. The job is done, its been done for about a month. Care to read past the first page? And no, putting the car in gear with an air wrench still doesn't work. And yes, I have more torqueing power with my hands than with any air gun, so, wrong again. Lock up the motor with the starter?