Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics - Page 4

marc · 01-07-2007, 07:10 AM

use a verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry high grit sand paper, or steel wool.

Bill UK · 01-07-2007, 01:39 PM

I use these products on rebuild, the Holts fire gum for turbo to exhaust manifold and turbo elbow to exhaust down pipe. The loctite 5926 is fuel, oil and water resistance at high temperature I've used this in the absence of the odd missing gasket for years, highly recommended products. I also use the Loctite 5926 as a replacement for Part No 08826-00080 packing seal. If you need to use old fuel line washers and they are made of copper, heat them up (red hot) immediately quench them in water to anneal them. Aluminium is annealed by heating to 550? C and air cool. Couple of quick questions; have you replaced the oil seals on the front cam journals and oil seals for the valves.

IHateHacks · 01-07-2007, 04:03 PM

The cam seals were replaced I don't know if the valve seals were replaced, I haven't gotten my receipt yet. The shop resealed the No.1 cam bearing caps with packing material. The valve seals didn't leak anyways. The engine hardly used any oil maybe .25 quart every 3000 miles and never any blue smoke on start-up, not even any white smoke with a BHG.

I'm just going to order new copper sealing washers, they are cheap.

Bill UK · 01-07-2007, 05:03 PM

Well it sounds if your doing all the right things, the reason I asked about the cam seals is; I sent my head away to be skimmed and left them the valve seal and cam seals to be fitted. Collected the head late one Saturday night and started reassembling the inlet manifold parts etc. I fitted the cam rear plate and pulleys on the garage bench with the inlet side of the head facing me. Put the head on the next day and started her up only to find oil gushing out of the bottom front part of the engine. The machine shop that did the head had forgotten to fit the cam seals. Managed to get ?50 ($90) back as compensation for cleaning up all the oil down the driveway.

IHateHacks · 01-08-2007, 03:12 AM

Wow that sucks. You can't actually see the cam seals unless the cam gears and no.2 timing cover are removed or unless you take off the no.1 bearing caps. I only assume the cam seals were replaced because the cams where out at the machine shop and the bearing caps have fresh packing material on them.

Now you got me paranoid.

Just for fun here's the list of parts I need at the moment to put it back together:

Timing belt and tensioner
ARP Head Bolts (Yep I changed my mind AGAIN)
NGK spark plugs
Fuel injector to head insulators
Fuel injector to fuel rail grommets
Auxiliary air pipe to vacuum transmiting pipe hose
No.6 water by-pass hose
Heater union to water by-pass pipe hose
Turbo oil pipe gaskets and sealing washers
No.1 fuel pipe sealing washers
Heater union sealing washers
Cold start injector gasket and sealing washers

That's about $300-$350 in just mundane parts. I never was able to buy my downpipe or test pipe because the head took all of my money. When I dropped it off they told me $80-$100 max. $451 later now I'm broke with no downpipe and a head that still needs a little work. And I'm walking funny from having that pipe shoved up my .......

ddmcse · 01-08-2007, 11:37 AM

the guy that did the head work will know where to get lapping compound

IHateHacks · 01-08-2007, 11:26 PM

Talk about getting the shaft. If anybody wants to know how much a Toyota geniune timing belt and tensioner are:

Timing Belt- $38.37 not bad at all (I get a discount I paid $29.32)

Tensioner spring- $6.51

Tensioner idler sub assembly- $136.28!!!! (with my discount its still $96.00!!!)

Now I know why most people don't replace the tensioner!!!

Ordered my ARP bolts, should have them by the end of the week ($109 shipped).

IHateHacks · 01-09-2007, 05:02 PM

Just got back from the dealer and got screwed out of a cold start injector gasket and 2 copper sealing washers. I wasn't charged for them, but I specifically pointed out that gasket on the computer screen to the parts guy and he STILL manages to F that up. How do these people get jobs? Imagine if they worked in the service department, actually I'm sure they do.

And that new tensioner pulley was worth every penny. I thought my stock one was OK, still spinning good, only making a tiny bit of noise, yeah F that! A new one is like night and day compared to my used one. So anyone who is replacing their timing belt, I suggest you buy a new tensioner.

Here's the parts list as of today:

Cold start injector gasket
2 copper sealing washers
Auxiliary vacuum hose
Heater core inlet and outlet hoses
NGK spark plugs

That's it! Then I get to slap her back together and pray.

Bill UK · 01-09-2007, 08:53 PM

I use a parts catalogue on CD very similar to the repair manual except it has all the Toyota part No`s. If I need a part I just phone through the part number. Before I had the catalogue some years ago I had the head off and needed the water by-pass union/pipe that’s right at the back of the cylinder head, mine had corroded away in places. I gave the description to the Toyota parts manager and in a few days a washer arrived, no metal pipe or nut. Apparently the part I needed requires to be ordered with 3 part No`s.
90401-22004 for the union
90430-22008 (2 off) for the gaskets
90405-17995 for the metal pipe
With the parts catalogue on CD its so much easer to get the right part first time, it also has diagrams showing where ever nut and bolt is located with each part No`s. Not sure if they are available in the US, the link below is for one on ebay UK.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ELECTRONIC-PARTS-CATALOGUE-EPC-5-CDs_W0QQitemZ250069576904QQihZ015QQcategoryZ36086Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

IHateHacks · 01-09-2007, 09:27 PM

I need that CD!!! Those part #'s are the same for the US. (90430-22008 is the number for the 2 union gaskets I ordered).

Bill UK I have an important question for you. My no.2 timing belt cover (the black plate behind the cam gears) was not shaved along with the head, so the cover sticks out farther than the head surface. Is this a problem? Will it cause the head to sit on an angle? I can post a picture of what I'm talking about if you need me to.

01-07-2007, 07:10 AM	#31
marc 12psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: salem mass Posts: 329	use a verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry high grit sand paper, or steel wool. __________________ nothing but the best -mods- so far K&N intake fipk 3" megan downpipe 3"turbo elbow 4 washers on the wastegate highflow cat short shifter 89+ front bumper, pic soon to come many more upgrades soon

01-08-2007, 11:37 AM	#36
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	the guy that did the head work will know where to get lapping compound __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

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01-07-2007, 01:39 PM	#32
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I use these products on rebuild, the Holts fire gum for turbo to exhaust manifold and turbo elbow to exhaust down pipe. The loctite 5926 is fuel, oil and water resistance at high temperature I've used this in the absence of the odd missing gasket for years, highly recommended products. I also use the Loctite 5926 as a replacement for Part No 08826-00080 packing seal. If you need to use old fuel line washers and they are made of copper, heat them up (red hot) immediately quench them in water to anneal them. Aluminium is annealed by heating to 550? C and air cool. Couple of quick questions; have you replaced the oil seals on the front cam journals and oil seals for the valves.

01-07-2007, 04:03 PM	#33
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	The cam seals were replaced I don't know if the valve seals were replaced, I haven't gotten my receipt yet. The shop resealed the No.1 cam bearing caps with packing material. The valve seals didn't leak anyways. The engine hardly used any oil maybe .25 quart every 3000 miles and never any blue smoke on start-up, not even any white smoke with a BHG. I'm just going to order new copper sealing washers, they are cheap.

01-07-2007, 05:03 PM	#34
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Well it sounds if your doing all the right things, the reason I asked about the cam seals is; I sent my head away to be skimmed and left them the valve seal and cam seals to be fitted. Collected the head late one Saturday night and started reassembling the inlet manifold parts etc. I fitted the cam rear plate and pulleys on the garage bench with the inlet side of the head facing me. Put the head on the next day and started her up only to find oil gushing out of the bottom front part of the engine. The machine shop that did the head had forgotten to fit the cam seals. Managed to get ?50 ($90) back as compensation for cleaning up all the oil down the driveway.

01-08-2007, 03:12 AM	#35
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Wow that sucks. You can't actually see the cam seals unless the cam gears and no.2 timing cover are removed or unless you take off the no.1 bearing caps. I only assume the cam seals were replaced because the cams where out at the machine shop and the bearing caps have fresh packing material on them. Now you got me paranoid. Just for fun here's the list of parts I need at the moment to put it back together: Timing belt and tensioner ARP Head Bolts (Yep I changed my mind AGAIN) NGK spark plugs Fuel injector to head insulators Fuel injector to fuel rail grommets Auxiliary air pipe to vacuum transmiting pipe hose No.6 water by-pass hose Heater union to water by-pass pipe hose Turbo oil pipe gaskets and sealing washers No.1 fuel pipe sealing washers Heater union sealing washers Cold start injector gasket and sealing washers That's about $300-$350 in just mundane parts. I never was able to buy my downpipe or test pipe because the head took all of my money. When I dropped it off they told me $80-$100 max. $451 later now I'm broke with no downpipe and a head that still needs a little work. And I'm walking funny from having that pipe shoved up my .......

01-08-2007, 11:26 PM	#37
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Talk about getting the shaft. If anybody wants to know how much a Toyota geniune timing belt and tensioner are: Timing Belt- $38.37 not bad at all (I get a discount I paid $29.32) Tensioner spring- $6.51 Tensioner idler sub assembly- $136.28!!!! (with my discount its still $96.00!!!) Now I know why most people don't replace the tensioner!!! Ordered my ARP bolts, should have them by the end of the week ($109 shipped).

01-09-2007, 05:02 PM	#38
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Just got back from the dealer and got screwed out of a cold start injector gasket and 2 copper sealing washers. I wasn't charged for them, but I specifically pointed out that gasket on the computer screen to the parts guy and he STILL manages to F that up. How do these people get jobs? Imagine if they worked in the service department, actually I'm sure they do. And that new tensioner pulley was worth every penny. I thought my stock one was OK, still spinning good, only making a tiny bit of noise, yeah F that! A new one is like night and day compared to my used one. So anyone who is replacing their timing belt, I suggest you buy a new tensioner. Here's the parts list as of today: Cold start injector gasket 2 copper sealing washers Auxiliary vacuum hose Heater core inlet and outlet hoses NGK spark plugs That's it! Then I get to slap her back together and pray.

01-09-2007, 08:53 PM	#39
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I use a parts catalogue on CD very similar to the repair manual except it has all the Toyota part No`s. If I need a part I just phone through the part number. Before I had the catalogue some years ago I had the head off and needed the water by-pass union/pipe that’s right at the back of the cylinder head, mine had corroded away in places. I gave the description to the Toyota parts manager and in a few days a washer arrived, no metal pipe or nut. Apparently the part I needed requires to be ordered with 3 part No`s. 90401-22004 for the union 90430-22008 (2 off) for the gaskets 90405-17995 for the metal pipe With the parts catalogue on CD its so much easer to get the right part first time, it also has diagrams showing where ever nut and bolt is located with each part No`s. Not sure if they are available in the US, the link below is for one on ebay UK. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ELECTRONIC-PARTS-CATALOGUE-EPC-5-CDs_W0QQitemZ250069576904QQihZ015QQcategoryZ36086Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

01-09-2007, 09:27 PM	#40
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	I need that CD!!! Those part #'s are the same for the US. (90430-22008 is the number for the 2 union gaskets I ordered). Bill UK I have an important question for you. My no.2 timing belt cover (the black plate behind the cam gears) was not shaved along with the head, so the cover sticks out farther than the head surface. Is this a problem? Will it cause the head to sit on an angle? I can post a picture of what I'm talking about if you need me to.