Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics - Page 5

Bill UK · 01-09-2007, 10:04 PM

I know what you are referring to, I` ve done three BHG`s on three separate Supra`s two before any Supra forums where available. All the heads where skimmed ( shaved ) but I did not seem to have a problem, don’t forget the gasket material is quite thick. I've seen this question mentioned before on other forums and it has been recommended to trim some material off the No 2 timing belt cover if the block has been shaved also. If in doubt I would remove the cover ( you will need to remove the cam gears as you know, not a big problem) bolt down the head and then fit the cover.

By the way I'm properly 5 – 7 hours in front of you in the UK so I can answer you questions before you post them in theory.

Bill UK · 01-09-2007, 11:08 PM

A few screen shots of the parts catalogue software, just enter your car VIN number at the beginning and all parts will be related to your engine and chassis #. You can also zoom in and printout. You simply click on the # next to the part on the drawing and then click next, this takes you to a parts list page with the Toyota parts listed just like they do at Toyota except you can take your time to search for the odd nut/washer without someone breathing down your neck. Good Hey!

Bill UK · 01-09-2007, 11:11 PM

Please note the numbers illustrated in the drawings below are not Toyota part # , they are listed on another page after you have select several or one item you click next to enter a parts list page with all the part # and description. Also these are not very clear screen captures the real thing is much clearer.

IHateHacks · 01-10-2007, 02:03 AM

OK thanks for the detailed response about the No.2 timing cover, I really appreciate it.

That CD has the same exact software that the dealers use. I know what you mean about them breathing down your neck while you try and locate the parts you need. Must be nice having that software at home! The dealer must think you are some kind of Toyota genius coming up with all the part #'s.

I noticed the time lag (or warp) in our posts.

Thanks again Bill UK!!

mad_dicer · 01-10-2007, 04:34 AM

bill where did you get that software?

Bill UK · 01-10-2007, 01:30 PM

I've had this software for about 10 years; ( purchase from ebay ) my first copy was compatible with windows 95-98 operating system. Upgraded to win 2000 and the software didn’t work, so I obtained another from another ebay seller. The reason I mention this, if you buy a copy ensure to ask the seller what system it is compatible with i.e. win XL, 2000, 98 etc. I mailed the current ebay seller for shipping cost to the states, which he confirmed to be $3.87 the item is listed at $8.72 buy it now price. I didn’t buy my copy from this seller so I can’t confirm his reputation, I can only suggest for the price its worth taking a chance. There are 5 Disc’s in all, may be worth copying and selling on ebay yourself in the US.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ELECTRONIC-PARTS-CATALOGUE-EPC-5-CDs_W0QQitemZ250069576904QQihZ015QQcategoryZ36086Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

IHateHacks · 01-10-2007, 04:10 PM

Just received my ARP head bolts. I always wondered what the big deal is between stock bolts and ARP bolts. After seeing them in person I now know why. The quality is unsurpassed.

Plus the technology that ARP incorporates into their products is amazing. They take into account the amount of torque lost to the amount of friction between the bolt and the block.

For 12mm (shank not bolt head) 190,000psi tensile strength studs (they don't list 12mm bolts they only go up to 10mm bolts) they say use 86 ft/lbs of torque. It also says that is a general specification its not application specific. So what torque spec. have you used Bill UK? Or anyone that has done this themselves?

Bill UK · 01-10-2007, 06:21 PM

I set my torque at 90ft/lbs with moly lube with no problems, just make sure the holes in the block are nice and clean.

IHateHacks · 01-10-2007, 10:28 PM

Thank you!

I already ran a bottom tap through the 14 head bolt holes in the block. I'm still going to use brake cleaner and blow the holes out with compressed air.

I test fitted the bolts and I noticed that you can just barely fit a 3/8" drive 14mm socket in between the lifter bores. The walls are machined (from the factory) just enough to fit a 14mm socket. It's like they did it just for ARP bolts (I doubt it!). It's nice to have something work out in your favor once in a while (or just once).

Bill UK · 01-10-2007, 11:33 PM

I had a lot of bad luck on the last head I did, first of all one of the head bolts was damaged by the previous owner which meant the hexagon socket drive just spun in the top of the bolt, I ended up grinding the top off with a small grind stone fitted to a Dremel tool. I used about 10 stones plus 4-5 hours grinding time, as you know there isn’t much room in there to fit a socket let alone a grinding wheel. The second thing that went wrong was I forgot to drain the block; I drained the radiator and removed it, but forgot about the block drain plug. When I lifted the head a small amount of coolant ran down the oil holes. The last thing was the missing cam seals, they say bad luck comes in three’s.

01-10-2007, 04:10 PM	#47
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Just received my ARP head bolts. I always wondered what the big deal is between stock bolts and ARP bolts. After seeing them in person I now know why. The quality is unsurpassed. Plus the technology that ARP incorporates into their products is amazing. They take into account the amount of torque lost to the amount of friction between the bolt and the block. For 12mm (shank not bolt head) 190,000psi tensile strength studs (they don't list 12mm bolts they only go up to 10mm bolts) they say use 86 ft/lbs of torque. It also says that is a general specification its not application specific. So what torque spec. have you used Bill UK? Or anyone that has done this themselves? Last edited by IHateHacks; 01-10-2007 at 04:14 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Blown Head Gasket Symptoms!	Dejvid1785	MKIII FAQ	76	04-24-2011 07:59 PM
Blown Head Gasket Snake Oil	unkymurch	Non-Generation Specific Questions	21	08-06-2010 02:11 AM
1989 Supra blown head gasket	rayk5799	Non-Generation Specific Questions	6	05-18-2009 10:51 AM
Update: Blown Head Gasket Snake Oil - 8 months later	unkymurch	Non-Generation Specific Questions	3	12-17-2008 09:35 PM
Head gasket repair	Kuban	MKIII Supra	9	07-20-2007 09:01 PM

01-09-2007, 10:04 PM	#41
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I know what you are referring to, I` ve done three BHG`s on three separate Supra`s two before any Supra forums where available. All the heads where skimmed ( shaved ) but I did not seem to have a problem, don’t forget the gasket material is quite thick. I've seen this question mentioned before on other forums and it has been recommended to trim some material off the No 2 timing belt cover if the block has been shaved also. If in doubt I would remove the cover ( you will need to remove the cam gears as you know, not a big problem) bolt down the head and then fit the cover. By the way I'm properly 5 – 7 hours in front of you in the UK so I can answer you questions before you post them in theory.

01-09-2007, 11:08 PM	#42
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	A few screen shots of the parts catalogue software, just enter your car VIN number at the beginning and all parts will be related to your engine and chassis #. You can also zoom in and printout. You simply click on the # next to the part on the drawing and then click next, this takes you to a parts list page with the Toyota parts listed just like they do at Toyota except you can take your time to search for the odd nut/washer without someone breathing down your neck. Good Hey!

01-09-2007, 11:11 PM	#43
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	Please note the numbers illustrated in the drawings below are not Toyota part # , they are listed on another page after you have select several or one item you click next to enter a parts list page with all the part # and description. Also these are not very clear screen captures the real thing is much clearer.

01-10-2007, 02:03 AM	#44
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	OK thanks for the detailed response about the No.2 timing cover, I really appreciate it. That CD has the same exact software that the dealers use. I know what you mean about them breathing down your neck while you try and locate the parts you need. Must be nice having that software at home! The dealer must think you are some kind of Toyota genius coming up with all the part #'s. I noticed the time lag (or warp) in our posts. Thanks again Bill UK!!

01-10-2007, 04:34 AM	#45
mad_dicer 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: sc Posts: 84	bill where did you get that software?

01-10-2007, 01:30 PM	#46
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I've had this software for about 10 years; ( purchase from ebay ) my first copy was compatible with windows 95-98 operating system. Upgraded to win 2000 and the software didn’t work, so I obtained another from another ebay seller. The reason I mention this, if you buy a copy ensure to ask the seller what system it is compatible with i.e. win XL, 2000, 98 etc. I mailed the current ebay seller for shipping cost to the states, which he confirmed to be $3.87 the item is listed at $8.72 buy it now price. I didn’t buy my copy from this seller so I can’t confirm his reputation, I can only suggest for the price its worth taking a chance. There are 5 Disc’s in all, may be worth copying and selling on ebay yourself in the US. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-ELECTRONIC-PARTS-CATALOGUE-EPC-5-CDs_W0QQitemZ250069576904QQihZ015QQcategoryZ36086Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

01-10-2007, 06:21 PM	#48
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I set my torque at 90ft/lbs with moly lube with no problems, just make sure the holes in the block are nice and clean.

01-10-2007, 10:28 PM	#49
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Thank you! I already ran a bottom tap through the 14 head bolt holes in the block. I'm still going to use brake cleaner and blow the holes out with compressed air. I test fitted the bolts and I noticed that you can just barely fit a 3/8" drive 14mm socket in between the lifter bores. The walls are machined (from the factory) just enough to fit a 14mm socket. It's like they did it just for ARP bolts (I doubt it!). It's nice to have something work out in your favor once in a while (or just once).

01-10-2007, 11:33 PM	#50
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	I had a lot of bad luck on the last head I did, first of all one of the head bolts was damaged by the previous owner which meant the hexagon socket drive just spun in the top of the bolt, I ended up grinding the top off with a small grind stone fitted to a Dremel tool. I used about 10 stones plus 4-5 hours grinding time, as you know there isn’t much room in there to fit a socket let alone a grinding wheel. The second thing that went wrong was I forgot to drain the block; I drained the radiator and removed it, but forgot about the block drain plug. When I lifted the head a small amount of coolant ran down the oil holes. The last thing was the missing cam seals, they say bad luck comes in three’s.