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Old 01-10-2007, 11:56 PM   #51
Bill UK
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Just found another one, UK though. But it does say ship worldwide. This is identical to mine. This weekend I'll have ago at burning a few copies off. (If I can find the original discs) Get ready will your delivery address.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2005-TOYOTA-ELECTRONIC-PARTS-CATALOGUE-EPC-on-DVD_W0QQitemZ300069111472QQihZ020QQcategoryZ122110 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:40 AM   #52
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that would rock
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Old 01-11-2007, 01:14 AM   #53
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i think i did 80lb ish on the last one .
i've been thinking about hitting it harder just to be sure (er)
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Old 01-11-2007, 04:16 PM   #54
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So 86 ft/lbs it is. That is what the box says and I think ARP knows what they are doing.

I just got done running circles around the parts department people at my nearest Toyota dealership. If they didn't have a parts manager there I'd be SOL. I swear to god I had 4 different parts people try to help me with no luck, they were that incompetent. Parts manager comes along and tells them to move and for me to come behind the counter and says "Just bring up the screen, he'll just point out the parts." If I got a job there I'd be assistant manager in about a day.
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:53 PM   #55
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Well after meeting Dan (ddmcse) I'm even less confident that I will be able to use this head.

He suggested that I post a pic and see what you guys think.



That's cylinder 6's cooling passage on the exhaust manifold side.

Will I ever get a good seal using a stock head gasket here?
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Old 01-12-2007, 10:56 PM   #56
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You may just about get away with that, below is a pic of my head I removed when stripping down the engine to do a big end repair about six thousand miles after the BHG repair, probably due to the three problems I had. (That’s another story) You can see the pressure marks left by the stock head gasket extend quite a bit out from the cooling passage, although I'm not sure looking at you pic how far out the damage is on the left side of the cooling passage. One option is to have it mig welded and then re shaved, at least its not near the combustion chamber.
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Old 01-13-2007, 02:43 AM   #57
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Wow Bill UK you always seem to have just the information I'm looking for. Thank you!!

Wow that head looks mint, I wish mine looked like that.

Yes the damage on the left extends out farther than the damage on the right. I'd say 2.5-3mm.

I was just saying that to myself about it not being near the combustion chamber. There is far greater pressure in the combustion chamber (180psi) than in the cooling passages (15psi).

Thank you for the input it is greatly appreciated!!!
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Old 01-13-2007, 03:16 AM   #58
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hey man, im ganan start my hg job soon, this week or next. and i just wanted to know ur total money spent. i wnana knwo how much im ganan need. but im ganan get my head shaved for free seeing as we have the machien to do it in our shop class. thanks.

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Old 01-13-2007, 03:40 PM   #59
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This may be an alternative to welding, they manufacture allsorts of polymers, aluminium epoxy putty etc for repairing worn or damaged castings and shafts; you would need to check out the temperature resistance. Many years ago I repaired an air-bearing surface on a granite bed CNC PCB drilling machine, it set as hard as the granite. I also remember it was quite expensive .Many be worth contacting them for some advice.
http://www.devcon.com
http://www.devcon.com/maintenance.cfm
http://www.devcon.com/devconcatsolution.cfm?catid=16

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Old 01-14-2007, 02:18 AM   #60
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Marc-

Felpro MLS head gasket kit: $225 (Which included a multi layer steel head gasket, intake manifold gasket, intake chamber gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, turbo to exhaust manifold gasket, turbo to O2 housing gasket, O2 housing to downpipe gasket, turbo water line gasket, water outlet housing gasket, EGR cooler gasket, EGR valve to intake manifold gasket, EGR valve to intake chamber gasket, cam position sensor O-ring, thermostat gasket, fuel injector O-rings, valve cover gaskets, valve cover grommets, and ISC valve gasket)
Machine work: $200 (Including having them weld and tap new threads for my exhaust manifold studs)
ARP head bolt kit: $109 (shipped)
The following parts were bought from a Toyota dealer-
Timing belt: $38.37
Timing belt tensioner: $136.28
Timing belt tensioner spring: $6.51
Fuel injector insulators: $19.32 (rubber part that goes from the injector to the head)
Fuel injector grommets: $19.32 (rubber part that goes from the injector to the fuel rail, the little O-rings came with the head gasket kit)
Turbo oil line feed, fuel rail feed, and cold start injector to fuel rail sealing washers: $5.58 (6 in all, they are all the same part #)
Turbo oil pipe to block gasket: $3.18
Turbo oil pipe to turbo gasket: $2.74
Heater union sealing washers: $3.52
Water by pass pipe to water outlet housing hose: $18.32 (I had to cut mine off, you may not need this part)
Water by pass pipe to heater union hose: $19.74 (same deal, you may not need this part but its always good to install new ones while you are doing it)
Cold start injector to intake manifold gasket: $2.87
Cold start injector to fuel line sealing washers: $2.22
Auxiliary air pipe to vacuum transmiting pipe vacuum hose: $10.80 (mine split when I pulled it off, you may not need this part)
ISC to intake manifold coolant hose: $23.27 (I replaced this part because the only time you can get at the hose is with the intake manifold apart)
Throttle body to water by pass pipe coolant hose: $19.91 (same deal)
Heater core inlet hose: $43.46 (might as well replace these with the head off)
Heater core outlet hose: $32.75

I get a 20% discount from my Toyota dealer so my grand total is $825.76. Minus the $200 for the machine work and you are looking at $625 and that's with my 20% off and IF you buy the exact head gasket kit that I bought. There are many out there for cheaper as well as metal head gaskets which cost $200-300 themselves. You are probably looking at around 700-800 dollars if you do the exact same thing I did.

I will check that option out Bill UK, thanks!

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