Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics - Page 8

IHateHacks · 01-18-2007, 09:39 PM

Ok finally got a day when it wasn't 20 degrees outside, so I threw the head on. If it didn't start snowing I would have gotten alot more done.

So I torqued the ARP head bolts to 70 ft/lbs. That was as far as I felt comfortable going. All you lunatics that do 90 ft/lbs, you got balls. I first did them hand tight, then hit them with a rachet in the TSRM order, then I torqued to 20 ft/lbs then 32, then 55, then 65 then 70. All in the TSRM order. There are 2 TSRM orders for head bolts one for loosening head bolts and one for tighening head bolts, just thought I'd mention it. I used Copper RTV where the TSRM says to, where the timing case and block meet. It's good up to 700 degrees and 2X stronger between oily surfaces.

Should have it running by this weekend. Unless we get like a foot of snow.

Any input on the head bolt torque?

ddmcse · 01-19-2007, 12:10 PM

give 'er one more click

you said you was gonna follow arp specs

do you really wanna be sitting at a light. watching the temp gauge wiggle and wonder if you shoud have applied 5 more lbs ? i don't think so
hit it !

ddmcse · 01-19-2007, 12:14 PM

rut roh

i'm on the shoreline and it's doing a freezing percip type thing which prolly means snow where u are..

p.s. from the looks of where you're at , it's all down hill now (nothing but putting bolts back on)

IHateHacks · 01-19-2007, 03:21 PM

Well its 40 degrees right now, which is warm by my standards, I will get some more done today.

Yeah I said alot of things in this thread, but when it comes down to the wire I let my instincts take over.

First of all the ARP specs are general specs not vehicle specific specs. 86ft/lbs is for ALL 12mm ARP studs not bolts. They don't even list 12mm bolts. Plus factory specs are 58 ft/lbs that means the engineers at toyota built the HEAD and the block threads to withstand 58 ft/lbs not 90!! I'm just really worried about cracking the head or overtorquing the head gasket. I think 70 ft/lbs is a nice medium. Plus they are tight as hell!!

I know the ARP bolts are stronger than normal bolts so I'm not worried about snapping them, Im worried about stripping the block threads or f-ing up the head or gasket. Im not using a metal head gasket, just a MLS Felpro one.

IHateHacks · 01-19-2007, 09:25 PM

Well started around noon time and called it quits around 4. After all the work done to the head on the exhaust manifold studs, one of them will not hold 29 ft/lbs of torque and is pulling the threads out of the head everytime I go to torque it. All the ones the shop welded and retapped are fine, it's one that has the stock threads. Toyota has the softest aluminum in this world. I'm very pissed right now. Now I have to buy another exhaust manifold gasket and install a helicoil. Besides that BS I managed to install the crank pulley, timing belt, lower timing cover, tensioner and spring. I torqued the crank pulley to 150ft/lbs because thats as far as my torque wrench goes.

OfnaRcR · 01-20-2007, 06:33 AM

Looks great. I hate head bolts, my friend stripped 2 of them today trying to get a head off his prelude.

IHateHacks · 01-21-2007, 04:43 PM

Your worst nightmare-

I'd rather trade 10 blown head gaskets for 1 stripped out bolt threads. This is the 4th helicoil I had to install into this head. I'd rather have had to do the head gasket 40 times over.

And this happened NOT from overtorqueing, I have a DIGITAL torque wrench that displays LIVE real time torque values 5 times a second. This is to prove that Toyota aluminum is weak and will strip out from normal torque values.

IHateHacks · 01-21-2007, 08:56 PM

How do my new threads look? These were made by my me, a non-professional. Just an amateur automotive technician. No power tools or machines.

It sucks working on a car from 9 am to 4 pm in 25 degree weather.

ddmcse · 01-22-2007, 01:01 PM

lol
it's a love hate relationship for sure

IHateHacks · 01-22-2007, 06:18 PM

You can say that again Dan. Just installed the helicoil and put the exhaust manifold on.

Now it's classroom time! I borrowed a friends tech school book and was browsing the bolt torque section and found this chart. It showed the correct torque value modification due to lubricant on the threads. I found this interesting. I used copper anti-seize on the perfectly clean brand new studs. On this chart it says with anti seize on the threads to use a 40% reduction in torque (OEM specified torque). I did the math and for 29 ft/lbs thats 17.4 ft/lbs (good thing my digital torque wrench goes to tenths of a foot pound). But I didn't feel comfortable torquing at such a low value so I only did a 15% reduction this time which is 24.65 ft/lbs but I just did 24 ft/lbs (actually 23.6 ft.lbs). Yeah I like to get technical when It comes to torqueing shit.

01-19-2007, 12:10 PM	#72
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	give 'er one more click you said you was gonna follow arp specs do you really wanna be sitting at a light. watching the temp gauge wiggle and wonder if you shoud have applied 5 more lbs ? i don't think so hit it ! __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

01-19-2007, 12:14 PM	#73
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	rut roh i'm on the shoreline and it's doing a freezing percip type thing which prolly means snow where u are.. p.s. from the looks of where you're at , it's all down hill now (nothing but putting bolts back on) __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

01-22-2007, 01:01 PM	#79
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	lol it's a love hate relationship for sure __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

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01-18-2007, 09:39 PM	#71
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Ok finally got a day when it wasn't 20 degrees outside, so I threw the head on. If it didn't start snowing I would have gotten alot more done. So I torqued the ARP head bolts to 70 ft/lbs. That was as far as I felt comfortable going. All you lunatics that do 90 ft/lbs, you got balls. I first did them hand tight, then hit them with a rachet in the TSRM order, then I torqued to 20 ft/lbs then 32, then 55, then 65 then 70. All in the TSRM order. There are 2 TSRM orders for head bolts one for loosening head bolts and one for tighening head bolts, just thought I'd mention it. I used Copper RTV where the TSRM says to, where the timing case and block meet. It's good up to 700 degrees and 2X stronger between oily surfaces. Should have it running by this weekend. Unless we get like a foot of snow. Any input on the head bolt torque?

01-19-2007, 03:21 PM	#74
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Well its 40 degrees right now, which is warm by my standards, I will get some more done today. Yeah I said alot of things in this thread, but when it comes down to the wire I let my instincts take over. First of all the ARP specs are general specs not vehicle specific specs. 86ft/lbs is for ALL 12mm ARP studs not bolts. They don't even list 12mm bolts. Plus factory specs are 58 ft/lbs that means the engineers at toyota built the HEAD and the block threads to withstand 58 ft/lbs not 90!! I'm just really worried about cracking the head or overtorquing the head gasket. I think 70 ft/lbs is a nice medium. Plus they are tight as hell!! I know the ARP bolts are stronger than normal bolts so I'm not worried about snapping them, Im worried about stripping the block threads or f-ing up the head or gasket. Im not using a metal head gasket, just a MLS Felpro one.

01-19-2007, 09:25 PM	#75
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Well started around noon time and called it quits around 4. After all the work done to the head on the exhaust manifold studs, one of them will not hold 29 ft/lbs of torque and is pulling the threads out of the head everytime I go to torque it. All the ones the shop welded and retapped are fine, it's one that has the stock threads. Toyota has the softest aluminum in this world. I'm very pissed right now. Now I have to buy another exhaust manifold gasket and install a helicoil. Besides that BS I managed to install the crank pulley, timing belt, lower timing cover, tensioner and spring. I torqued the crank pulley to 150ft/lbs because thats as far as my torque wrench goes.

01-20-2007, 06:33 AM	#76
OfnaRcR 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: bvjhgfh Posts: 97	Looks great. I hate head bolts, my friend stripped 2 of them today trying to get a head off his prelude.

01-21-2007, 04:43 PM	#77
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Your worst nightmare- I'd rather trade 10 blown head gaskets for 1 stripped out bolt threads. This is the 4th helicoil I had to install into this head. I'd rather have had to do the head gasket 40 times over. And this happened NOT from overtorqueing, I have a DIGITAL torque wrench that displays LIVE real time torque values 5 times a second. This is to prove that Toyota aluminum is weak and will strip out from normal torque values.

01-21-2007, 08:56 PM	#78
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	How do my new threads look? These were made by my me, a non-professional. Just an amateur automotive technician. No power tools or machines. It sucks working on a car from 9 am to 4 pm in 25 degree weather.

01-22-2007, 06:18 PM	#80
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	You can say that again Dan. Just installed the helicoil and put the exhaust manifold on. Now it's classroom time! I borrowed a friends tech school book and was browsing the bolt torque section and found this chart. It showed the correct torque value modification due to lubricant on the threads. I found this interesting. I used copper anti-seize on the perfectly clean brand new studs. On this chart it says with anti seize on the threads to use a 40% reduction in torque (OEM specified torque). I did the math and for 29 ft/lbs thats 17.4 ft/lbs (good thing my digital torque wrench goes to tenths of a foot pound). But I didn't feel comfortable torquing at such a low value so I only did a 15% reduction this time which is 24.65 ft/lbs but I just did 24 ft/lbs (actually 23.6 ft.lbs). Yeah I like to get technical when It comes to torqueing shit.