A Little Story about a crank bolt - Page 2

abhattan · 12-14-2007, 06:32 PM

At the dealership, they have all of the right tools, and with the right tools you can do anything. But when your doing a job where you need the car up in a pinch, you have to be a little creative. It's all about turnaround time and cost. You try to keep your customers happy. What I did was a last resort kind of deal. This is not something you would do again. I will now go out and buy the correct tool or get stonger equipment. And by the way, you would be surprised what the dealer would do because your not looking. They know better than anyone that time is money. I've had many teachers that were all A techs at all sorts of dealerships with no less than 25 years of experience tell me stories of unorthodox ways they would get a car going again that the service repair manual doesn't contain. So, please, try to be a little open minded and not so sarcastic of other people's genious

Burn N' Up · 12-16-2007, 04:38 PM

I just leave mine in gear in 5th and have someone apply the brakes to the floor. Works everytime...

abhattan · 12-17-2007, 05:35 PM

This was an auto, the engine still rotates because of the torque converter. If it was a stick, Definitely!

pcmentor29 · 06-09-2009, 01:15 AM

Hi (this is to update this old thread) I have been looking at using hydrolock or a rope trick to immobilize the crank. In that Wiki article mentioned, if you read further it says damage should occur when the engine is at speed. At idle or other low pressure situations there should be no damge. With engine off there should follow that no damage should occur. I like the water instead of oil cause it's not so messy. Same with using a rope to stuff in there. These tips sure beat breaking a tooth of your flywheel or deforming the pulley. Now I have not tried water or rope yet but I plan on doing my timing belt soon. 85 22re. Using water is good because it evaporates easily.

abhattan · 03-19-2013, 11:53 PM

I know this is old, but we actually heard the water boiling in the combustion chambers. Kind of reminded me of a chemistry experiment, lol.

MA70-3.0GT · 03-22-2013, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abhattan

I am not recommending this to anyone..

Quote:

Originally Posted by abhattan

So just incase you ever in a position where you can't get your crank bolt out. You can use water!

It did seem that way to be perfectly honest... Another thing I noticed was you said you tried "locking the cam" and then "the belt broke"...

No offence, but this is why I do my own work on motors...

Bill UK · 03-23-2013, 07:19 PM

You may find these interesting Link & Link

abhattan · 03-28-2013, 01:06 AM

No offense taken brother, I was not as proffesional as I am now (Having all of the right tools and such), but I don't think I would ever try anything like this again anyway, lol. Wouldn't have to. Years of working on many different types of vehicles, and having all of the right tools surely helps, lol. And like the links describe, there are plenty of other legitimate ways of doing things. I just think people forget how strong these metal components are and what kinds of pressure they see on a normal basis. Most of you have NO idea.

12-14-2007, 06:32 PM	#11
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	At the dealership, they have all of the right tools, and with the right tools you can do anything. But when your doing a job where you need the car up in a pinch, you have to be a little creative. It's all about turnaround time and cost. You try to keep your customers happy. What I did was a last resort kind of deal. This is not something you would do again. I will now go out and buy the correct tool or get stonger equipment. And by the way, you would be surprised what the dealer would do because your not looking. They know better than anyone that time is money. I've had many teachers that were all A techs at all sorts of dealerships with no less than 25 years of experience tell me stories of unorthodox ways they would get a car going again that the service repair manual doesn't contain. So, please, try to be a little open minded and not so sarcastic of other people's genious __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

12-16-2007, 04:38 PM	#12
Burn N' Up 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 238	I just leave mine in gear in 5th and have someone apply the brakes to the floor. Works everytime... __________________ 89Turbo 5 speed:Eibach lowered,Tokico Illumina II TEMS,All Poly Bushings,3" Elbow/DP/Cat,HKS Sport Turbo Exhaust,K&N FPIK w/ AEM Dryflow,Cooleeze ceramic coated Turbo inlet Pipe and 2.5" hard IC Pipes,Custom 2.5" fitting Spearco IC,HKS SSQV BOV,Greddy 1.5mm MHG and timing belt,Magnecore Comp Wires,NGK IR Low-temp Plugs,ARP studs,Dual Flex-a-lite fans w/ thermo switch,Fluidyne Rad,PCV VTA,Stage 3 F1 Racing clutch,Stainless braided clutch line and brake lines,Drilled & slotted rotors,EBC pads.

12-17-2007, 05:35 PM	#13
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	This was an auto, the engine still rotates because of the torque converter. If it was a stick, Definitely! __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

03-19-2013, 11:53 PM	#15
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	I know this is old, but we actually heard the water boiling in the combustion chambers. Kind of reminded me of a chemistry experiment, lol. __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

03-28-2013, 01:06 AM	#18
abhattan 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brentwood, New York Posts: 162	No offense taken brother, I was not as proffesional as I am now (Having all of the right tools and such), but I don't think I would ever try anything like this again anyway, lol. Wouldn't have to. Years of working on many different types of vehicles, and having all of the right tools surely helps, lol. And like the links describe, there are plenty of other legitimate ways of doing things. I just think people forget how strong these metal components are and what kinds of pressure they see on a normal basis. Most of you have NO idea. __________________ '91 Turbo Targa 5 Spd. '87 Corolla GT-S 5 Spd '91 Accord Daily Driver 5 Spd Soon to be rebuilt (All to some extent)

06-09-2009, 01:15 AM	#14
pcmentor29 Stock Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: CA Posts: 1	Hi (this is to update this old thread) I have been looking at using hydrolock or a rope trick to immobilize the crank. In that Wiki article mentioned, if you read further it says damage should occur when the engine is at speed. At idle or other low pressure situations there should be no damge. With engine off there should follow that no damage should occur. I like the water instead of oil cause it's not so messy. Same with using a rope to stuff in there. These tips sure beat breaking a tooth of your flywheel or deforming the pulley. Now I have not tried water or rope yet but I plan on doing my timing belt soon. 85 22re. Using water is good because it evaporates easily.

03-23-2013, 07:19 PM	#17
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	You may find these interesting Link & Link

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