7M-GE issues

AFnic · 01-02-2008, 02:42 PM

hello everyone, as you will gather from what im asking i am new to the toyota/supra world. recently purchesed a 86' supra with the 7M-GE for $100 but it broken. here is the back story in a nut shell: goofing off in parking lot, between 5 and redline for about 5 minutes, car starts to over-heat so we stop and turn the car off. start it back up and whoa new sound from the motor. check the dip stick and the oil is a good color, but is slightly low, and there is gray smoke coming from the exhaust, and the exhaust manifold. say fuck it and start to go home. pull up to the entersection and start to go and the car stalls and wont start. think maybe the water pump siezed. pull it in the parking lot and there is nothing wrong with it. throw in some new coolant and try to turn over the car. nothing. play with distrubuter cables. nothing. play with ignithion cable, the car starts but the is what sounds like valve clatter sounding like its coming from the exhaust side, but the thing is that it isn't constant. when the car is first started and at idel it is almost not audible, but give the car a little gas and it kicks in, and the car eventually stalls out. i haven't pulled the valve cover to see what may or may not be going on, but i have a feeling that one of the exhaust valves got stuck open and a piston may have smacked it causing it to bend. sound logical? is there any one who has had similar issues, a buddy of mine said it sounds similar to when his BMW started killing rod bearings (also an inline 6). if there is and issue with the top end of the motor what internals do you all recomend? i would end up doing cams, valves, springs, and retainers all together if thats what it is, and i want them to be as close to stock as possible. also did alittle reading and they say that the head gasket and studs are week, who makes good ones for that as well? thank you.

Chambers · 01-02-2008, 03:03 PM

Well I don't honestly know about that sound you are hearing, possibly could be a damaged valve, but did you at least change the oil and filter before you went and revved it out so much for so long?

Also how is the oil pressure when you put some rpms on it? Does it fluctuate?
Lastly, if you are serious about this car, and you want to keep it, and if you are willing to put the money down to get the NA back to stock, find your self a turbo engine/tranny/harness/ECU and swap it in. Because if it is a damaged valve, you will probably need a new head unless it has not been damaged, and for what that would probably cost you could get a nice turbo engine. As for the hg, they wernt 'weak' but the torque specs were no where near what they needed to be so the hg would blow, ARP head studs and some type of metal head gasket are ideal for a bhg. All I can say now is good luck.

AFnic · 01-02-2008, 07:06 PM

so ARP studs, and a metal gasket..... is there a material that works better; steel, aluminum, copper, ect.... and what about top end enternals, i did some pokin around, but can't seem to find to many guys makin stuff for the 7M, it seems to be the 2JZ

Chambers · 01-03-2008, 03:10 PM

There are plenty of site around that offer parts for 7M, read some of the stickys, ill give a few though:

Performance Parts Aftermarket and Racing
suprastore .com
suprasport.com

01-02-2008, 02:42 PM	#1
AFnic Stock Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: kansas Posts: 4	7M-GE issues hello everyone, as you will gather from what im asking i am new to the toyota/supra world. recently purchesed a 86' supra with the 7M-GE for $100 but it broken. here is the back story in a nut shell: goofing off in parking lot, between 5 and redline for about 5 minutes, car starts to over-heat so we stop and turn the car off. start it back up and whoa new sound from the motor. check the dip stick and the oil is a good color, but is slightly low, and there is gray smoke coming from the exhaust, and the exhaust manifold. say fuck it and start to go home. pull up to the entersection and start to go and the car stalls and wont start. think maybe the water pump siezed. pull it in the parking lot and there is nothing wrong with it. throw in some new coolant and try to turn over the car. nothing. play with distrubuter cables. nothing. play with ignithion cable, the car starts but the is what sounds like valve clatter sounding like its coming from the exhaust side, but the thing is that it isn't constant. when the car is first started and at idel it is almost not audible, but give the car a little gas and it kicks in, and the car eventually stalls out. i haven't pulled the valve cover to see what may or may not be going on, but i have a feeling that one of the exhaust valves got stuck open and a piston may have smacked it causing it to bend. sound logical? is there any one who has had similar issues, a buddy of mine said it sounds similar to when his BMW started killing rod bearings (also an inline 6). if there is and issue with the top end of the motor what internals do you all recomend? i would end up doing cams, valves, springs, and retainers all together if thats what it is, and i want them to be as close to stock as possible. also did alittle reading and they say that the head gasket and studs are week, who makes good ones for that as well? thank you.

01-02-2008, 03:03 PM	#2
Chambers walbro fp Join Date: May 2007 Location: USA - Harford County, Maryland Posts: 481	Well I don't honestly know about that sound you are hearing, possibly could be a damaged valve, but did you at least change the oil and filter before you went and revved it out so much for so long? Also how is the oil pressure when you put some rpms on it? Does it fluctuate? Lastly, if you are serious about this car, and you want to keep it, and if you are willing to put the money down to get the NA back to stock, find your self a turbo engine/tranny/harness/ECU and swap it in. Because if it is a damaged valve, you will probably need a new head unless it has not been damaged, and for what that would probably cost you could get a nice turbo engine. As for the hg, they wernt 'weak' but the torque specs were no where near what they needed to be so the hg would blow, ARP head studs and some type of metal head gasket are ideal for a bhg. All I can say now is good luck. __________________ Whats in the garage, well.... in the yard. 1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd 1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd 1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto "Stuck in the 80's" Last edited by Chambers; 01-02-2008 at 03:06 PM.

01-03-2008, 03:10 PM	#4
Chambers walbro fp Join Date: May 2007 Location: USA - Harford County, Maryland Posts: 481	There are plenty of site around that offer parts for 7M, read some of the stickys, ill give a few though: Performance Parts Aftermarket and Racing suprastore .com suprasport.com __________________ Whats in the garage, well.... in the yard. 1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd 1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd 1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto "Stuck in the 80's"

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
No spark issues	DDBT	MKII Supra	2	01-06-2009 07:08 AM
Heat Consistancy Issues	Chambers	MKIII Supra	14	04-07-2008 12:52 AM
Two Issues: Front Brakes and Sporadic Vibration	Chambers	MKIII Supra	0	11-03-2007 04:15 PM
Transmission Issues	xpurplepandasx	MKII Supra	6	08-23-2007 02:12 AM
Issues After Changing Spark Plugs	Getphazed	MKIII Supra	8	11-03-2006 12:31 PM

01-02-2008, 07:06 PM	#3
AFnic Stock Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: kansas Posts: 4	so ARP studs, and a metal gasket..... is there a material that works better; steel, aluminum, copper, ect.... and what about top end enternals, i did some pokin around, but can't seem to find to many guys makin stuff for the 7M, it seems to be the 2JZ