Onto the next problems ~

[mkiiisupra]

Problem one:
Still have what appears to be coolant running into the floor board on the drivers side mainly along the path to the trunk release lever.

Today was the first time i got heat in my car, replaced heater core.... didnt fix it although old one did have a small leak which i thought was why there was coolant in my floor board... not the case.

But my heater VSV switch didnt work so i bypassed it, this is the first time coolant has ran into my heater core... lol prestoe HEAT!! heard gurgaling behind dash so now imma burp the system tomorrow i imagine its just cuase this was first time coolant ran into it....

But since vsv was always closed..... the coolant didnt run into my car right? so where is this fluid in my floor board coming from?

Problem two:
My power steering bump is squeking and usally has a hard time helping me steer when backing out of my drive way, or pulling out of a parking space... Perhaps becuase i dont have the vacumm lines running to it since the Nipples on that plastic vacuum thing are broken off... ?

But it also sometimes squels/squeks while just driving straight. Belt seems to be looser than the other ones around it.. Squeking started after a mechanic messed with my timing belt so i imagine they just didnt tighten belt back up.....

Erm however cannot find the other screw that allows it to swivel.

[mkiiisupra]

Ahh yes, and the A/C stoped working lol....

Was working great i had bought the wrong temp sender unit on the thermostat housing and when it was plugd in the A/C wouldnt turn on, so recently i replaced it with the right one, i think.... like a 10 $ part from autozone and reconected it. A/C was still working after that. Yea! lol

Next time i ran the car no more A/C..... i think im going to check the fuses, since the EFI fuse went maybe the A/C one too

[btwilson86]

From what you're saying it just sounds like a loose/worn belt on your p/s pump. I believe the little vacuum lines on the pump help to get the engine to spin a little quicker at an idle when you turn the wheel to help compensate for the extra load on the engine. I don't believe they would cause any sounds or anything. Try tightening the belt and see if that helps. Don't know about the coolant or the A/C not working...

[mkiiisupra]

would love to tighten the belt i cannot seem to get to the swivel bolt or w/e on the bottom side to loosen it

lol looks like imma have to remove stuff bah

[CyFi6]

about the heat... Even though the valve is closed, only one side of the pipeing is valved, meaning coolant still goes into the heater core, its just not flowing, but if it has a leak it will fill itself back up becuase only one side of the heater core has a valve. Also, be careful, if you didnt fiill the new heater core when you put it in, thats a large amount of air, enough to be freed into your engine and cause bad overheating. When i flushed my coolant i had no heat when i drove off (air pocket). I started feeling heat, cause the air got pushed out, and all of a sudden my temp gauge maxed and my coolant low light came on, coolant was boiling. That heater holds a lot of coolant so make sure you fill it up before driving.

[mkiiisupra]

New Porblem on top of those lol

Well seems my car still throws a code 41.... i imagine then that i just need to buy a new TPS, bottom bracket on it is busted so only one screw holding it on lol

However something i did notice, when i put the car in nuetral and push down on the pedal untill car revs to 1600 rpm and hold it there steady ... The rpms will drop then rise/ drop then rise over and over....

Is this the TPS that is cuasing the problem...?

Also 1st 2nd gear car seems to rev higher and pull more soon as i hit 3rd car doesnt want to rev as high or pull as much, even with throttle wide open

[CyFi6]

well if you know youre having tps problems fix that and go from there. Sounds like the culprit. Surging idle can also be caused by a vacuum leak or maf

[mkiiisupra]

ahh ok, Well vacuum lines are good recently replaced and not throwing a MAF code....

I thought TPS was good after i calibrated it but engine still throws code lol i guess its too beat up and i gotta shell out 120$$

Just wanted to know if it cuased those problems

[CyFi6]

a tps is 120 bucks? Damn. Well if the mount is broken and it doesnt stay still thats gonna need to be fixed

[mkiiisupra]

yea TSRM says list price like 110 retail price 75.... so dealer will charge me 120 ish i >.<


At that price diff prolly order online or from a dealership in columbia one here rapes u and cannot even perform a break job right, even after taking it back to them 4 times lol