Sigh... I'm sure it was a low mile JDM engine.... and God only knows how hard it was beat on before it came to the states and then how long it sat in a shipyard with a gentle mist of surface rust slowly leaving little pock marks of love everywhere important.

Seriously... how many JDM engines have you seen? Half of them were driven to the point that they could no longer pass inspection (often without oil) and then simply discarded for something newer.

White smoke? Does it smell sweet? White grease? Sorry, lithium grease isn't really used as an assembly lube... you're probably looking at an oiling system full of coolant. Have you checked the radiator for oil?

You know, the PCV system is actually VERY beneficial to older engines. It actually helps prevent blow-by. It creates suction which evacuates the blow-by gases which occur in all engines. get the breather off of it and run it to a vacuum source. If you don't like it running to the TB then run it to the exhaust. And if you're going to keep it running to atmosphere the catch can isn't going to do much more than sit there looking pretty.... well, in your case it's probably full of coolant and unburned fuel. :frown:

A light textured swirl pattern on the head and block deck is actually desireable if you're running an OEM type graphite HG. If you're running a steel HG you want smooth as glass and straight as hell. You need to specify what your doing or they'll assume it's a rebuild per specs. With the texture you should just barely be able to feel it with your fingernail.

Most shops will give the head a light soda blast to make it all smooth and like minded.

Are you serious? New one to me. I really can't imagine how that would serve any more purpose than cleaning off the rest of whatever carbon was still stuck to the valves so you think you're getting your money's worth.


BTW, you seen that they now make equipment for blasting with pulverized dry ice? No mess! Oh, and it's cold, so it's the safest thing to use on sheet metal!

Well in this neck of the woods they do and that's because the old napa parts store is the village machine chop main.

Well I've been procrastinating, but i am finally going to change out the piston rings. I read a post that said the oil pan can be dropped by just jacking up the engine a few inches http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...html#post32515.
Is there anything i should know about this method. Plus the head is already off so is it going to be a problem if i try to jack the engine from the motor mounts instead of the hooks on the head?
Also, are beck/arnley piston rings any good? I'm liking the $30 price tag from rockauto.com. Thanks in advance for any input.

help me out here people.

input: Take the engine out. Theres no point of leaving it in if everything is already apart, theres hardly anything keepin it in there! You are going to have a much higher chance of damaging expencive internal parts if you do it from the bottom, and you will likely end up with more issues than you started with. You should probably at least get the block honed out equally if measurements come out into spec.

PAULMICIN: You have got to stop using autozone parts on this car.

Those parts are bandaids and you are setting yourself up for more work.
Parts like those you should be going toyota oem from the dealer. Unless you're punching and stamping the block.

And then aftermarket. AutoZone is the DEVIL. :)

Ok, well I would get dealer rings if i could, but they are much too expensive. I found nippon piston rings for $48. doesn't nippon make oem spec?

as far as i know beck/arnley arent bad parts. But i dont know about rings.