I have the waterfall sound. Don't think is a BHG

[ebang]

I have the waterfall sound in the dash area, I do not have any other indication of a BHG...no over heating, no coolant loss no milky oil cap and I just changed the oil and no coolant that I noticed...That being said I was wondering if instead of burping the cooling system could I just flush and refill the system...I noticed there is a connection for a hose on the coolant lines closest to the dash...how do I go about flushing the system..thanks...Oh on a side note I think I have air in the system becasue I changed the Rad and did not refill it properly. Any input would be great...thanks all...

[jcchildr]

Sounds like air in the system, try burping it.

1) Park on a hill or up on ramps.
2) Remove the radiator cap **Perform this sytem burp IMMEDIATELY after a cold start**
3) Give the engine a few revs and look for air bubbles being purged from the system.

JordanC

[ebang]

I curently don't have parking brakes, that is why I was wondering if I could just flush and refill

[jcchildr]

Originally Posted by ebang

I curently don't have parking brakes, that is why I was wondering if I could just flush and refill

You could but more than likely you will let even MORE air in. Just have a buddy shove some blocks behind your wheels and send it up on ramps.

JordanC

[ebang]

ok...will give that a try, I read that some people say to turn the heater on full blast...do I need to do this....normally how long does this take?

[jcchildr]

Originally Posted by ebang

ok...will give that a try, I read that some people say to turn the heater on full blast...do I need to do this....normally how long does this take?

I've heard that before but never tried it. So try both, lol.

JordanC

[btwilson86]

Turning the heater on allows the coolant to travel through the heater core, so you DO need to have it on to burp the system. The reason we have to burp our cars is because the heater core just happens to be the highest point in the Supra's cooling system, higher than the radiator cap. This allows all the air trapped in the system to collect in the core. When you correctly bur the car, the angle it sits at allows the radiator cap to become the highest point thus allowing the air (very slowly, so it'll take quite some time) to travel to the cap and exit the system. You will most likely have to burp the system many times to get *most* of the air out.

[mrnickleye]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

Turning the heater on allows the coolant to travel through the heater core, so you DO need to have it on to burp the system. The reason we have to burp our cars is because the heater core just happens to be the highest point in the Supra's cooling system, higher than the radiator cap. This allows all the air trapped in the system to collect in the core. When you correctly bur the car, the angle it sits at allows the radiator cap to become the highest point thus allowing the air (very slowly, so it'll take quite some time) to travel to the cap and exit the system. You will most likely have to burp the system many times to get *most* of the air out.

All true except the "heater must be on" part. If the system is still setup in the original factory condition, (mine is not), then The coolant ALWAYS flows through the core UNLESS the temp is set to 65*. The vacuum operated coolant valve under the hood on the firewall in front of passenger is what shuts on/off coolant to core.
Normally vacuum is always applied threw the VSV.

VSV's go bad. You can just by-pass it, and hook vacuum straight to the coolant valve.

[ebang]

Originally Posted by mrnickleye

All true except the "heater must be on" part. If the system is still setup in the original factory condition, (mine is not), then The coolant ALWAYS flows through the core UNLESS the temp is set to 65*. The vacuum operated coolant valve under the hood on the firewall in front of passenger is what shuts on/off coolant to core.
Normally vacuum is always applied threw the VSV.

VSV's go bad. You can just by-pass it, and hook vacuum straight to the coolant valve.

do you have a pic or diagram of how to bypass the VSV I'm not even sure what to look for, as well i was wondering about the new tstat I got, someone said to remove the little "pin" that jigles and make a bigger hole...should I do this?

just wondering as well if this looks ok...the parst store said they are the same but it looks a little different.

[ebang]

just to add to this post can someone tell me what this piece of rubber tube is and should it be connected anywhere...it is attached to the firewall on the passanger side