But if you had you wouldnt of sprayed sensitive electronics with TB cleaner....

Eh?
 

I don't think you get me .I have a sense of humor and I can laugh at my own mistakes.little friendly sarcassism just keeps the blood flowing.Anywaysome else has come up
My car was fine till I drove it in the rain.and it started acting up again.I have a K/N air filter.Now can water pass threw if it needs oiled and cause the AFM to misbehave or should I simply move out of this rain forest hell.

Some one on here has a theory that the oils from the K/n are gumming up the AFM .not a bad theory really.plus is the K/N a superior upgrade over stock air filter.I have noticed some pics of cars putting out good power with the stock AF

Get a dry flow filter... like AEM or even one of HKS new dry flow ones...

The oils will jack up the AFM also K&N does not filter very well

Apexi.... you won't find any other air filter under my hood...


...unless you do. But then it's usually only temporary... like I took the Apexi off for cleaning.


The main concern with K&N is people have found thin film on MAF sensors which they believe was from the filter... if this is the case then the MKIII crowd's paranoia about them fogging the KVAFM's optics are well based. I really don't imagine any such "ingested" oil would be flowing in a volume sufficient to fog the optics or ruin a MAF unless you're doing an insane amount of driving every day and at a high throttle.

The reason I stand by my Apexi are some of the tests I've seen. No, you can't trust everything you see online, but what I've read is pretty consistent that the Apexi offer the best flow per filtering ability.

I did a WHOLE lot of research on air filters 2 yrs ago. My conclusion is:

I was told buy a Ford warranty person that if you use a K&N (or similar oiled filter, the AFM wwarranty will be voided.

Also, that every NAME brand filter performed almost identical to each other, air flow, and filtering properties.

So, it really does NOT matter what you use, as long as it is NOT some cheap ass NO NAME filter.

WIX, Purolator, Fram, K&N, Hastings,Napa....NAME BRANDS !!!!
etc.

You'll get improvement from just the addition of a fresh filter.

I tried the k&n. It's good but I don't think it's much better than anything else that is name brand.

My old Nissan truck loved those fresh fram filters. Alot.

While I agree that, in general, most air filters do permit similar air flow levels. I completely disagree with the statement that their filtering properties are "almost identical".

Most high performance filters let a LOT more crap through than the less expensive ones.

I would love to see a test showing that FRAM and Wix air filters filter as well as Apexi, K&N, HKS and especially Blitz's stainless steel filter. Last time I asked for this from someone making the same claims they replied with: "Oh, sorry I was thinking of oil filters"... Which don't perform the same from one to the next either.

Also lets keep in mind that all of these various media have VERY different properties the longer they're in service. Filters using oiled media or graduated density media start out letting tons of crap though, but do a MUCH better job catching smaller particulates than fiber media will at any point in it's serviceable life span. Paper filters do a great job for MOST of their VERY SHORT life span.

What it comes down to is not only the passable surface area but the opening size. You have two perforated screens, both have a 50% open surface area... one has holes .1" in diameter, the other .75" in diameter. They both block 50% of oncoming air, but only one's going to stop a bucket full of gravel.



Now, with all this in mind, happy shopping.

My brother looked at mine not long ago told me the same thing"just geta new one"

Starting to think
 

now I can't figure this but :
we have a afm (by code 24-31) giving me intermitant trouble.somrtimes fine then not so good at idle.OK at highway speeds

incorrectly clean it (lets not go again)then just horrible.
pull it apart seal it up and good that day,next day start-up fine then 10 minutes later ,up to temperature and back to the way it was before I touched it.
basically I know I need anew one at this point.
I checked into the maf-pro route ..ya not quite ready for the big time just yet.
I think I will go with the lexus upgrade ..MAF ,550 low impedience injectors and pump.
The thing is guys is:Can some one tell me why the AFM in the lexus won't work because some people say it does.
If its job is to read and tranmitt info to the tccs how can the tccs eff it up if I have the rest covered (550s and higher volume fuel pump)

The only part of the Lexus AFM that works in the MKIII is swapping housings (haven't I already covered this?). The electronics from the two are different, they provide different frequency scaling per measured airflow. PERIOD.

You're intermittent codes are probably the result of the attempted cleaning or due to the solvents attacking the circuit. Check the wire harness for shorts or too much resistance from the KVAF's harness connector and the TCCS' harness connector. Specifically you should look at E2 and VC. Test the resistance across THA and E2 as per the TSRM. I'm betting on a break in VC, either in the box or the harness.

If you do end up replacing the electronics you wanna send me the old box? I'm interested in dissecting one in person... actually, I'd love to try to rebuild one. ;)