My friend the Mechanic said:
 

go ahead and clean your AFM ...I did and now my car sits.Touchy little absolute,hard to find piece of the car!!!
so you want to know how I cleaned it? Simple I thought,I took it off and spayed it with throttle body cleaner..I mean I spayed the shit out it.(it was dirty)put it back on and not good.all codes lead to this 24 and 31.My buddy did suggest brake clean.but thought the other would be fine.Perhaps I miss understood him and I was only supposed to clean the housing.I read on here that a guy is using a ls400 with the ls AFM aswell without issue.Since I was planning full upgrades anyway I will probably do the same.Any advice.Its days like this that I do miss my Malibu lol

first advice never clean your afm electronics with carb cleaner again.

As for the Sc400 afm. I have one I just bought and its the housing that you use, so that means you take your old electronic from the stock afm and reuse it with the "new" SC400 afm.


Plus don't use the SC400 AFM unless you have 550s or enough fuel to match the new air flow.

whoa BUDDY!!!
 

"one of these cars"...Go back to my chevy,first post here looking for advice and I meet a goof !So you where born with all knowledge,You didn't need to ask anyone anything ever!wow smart guy.Simple mitake is all.I am not a kid who doesn't know shit alright.I have been wrenching everything I've ever driven for 30 years.
I love this little car I have now.And I will keep it in pristine condition as I did with my Malibu which is the handle I choose because i sold the car to buy the Supra.two totally different rides.But hey that car I could rebuild with my eyes closed.
Don't be so ugly its just a car

That's uncalled for. Give the guy some credit, he at least got information from someone who he thought knew what he was talking about.


Now, Mr. Sold my Malibu,

In the world of EFI there are several different systems used for measuring airflow: VAF, KVAF, MAF and MAP/IAT (aka Speed Density).

VAF = Vane Air Flow meters use a flap placed in the airflow. Incoming air pushes the flap out of the way and in doing so moves a variable resistance wiper, thus scaling the voltage returned to the ECU. The non-turbo MKIII uses this system. It's the most restrictive system out there, not very accurate, but also one of the harder ones to f@#% up.

KVAF = Karmen Vortex Air Flow meters use a honeycomb shaped grill to form the airflow into a specific pattern. This patterned airflow is then read by an array of optics. The data about the amount of air is then returned to the ECU as a pulsed signal. This is probably the easiest system out there to screw up in a MAJOR way. Solvents can ruin the lenses the optical sensor looks through or they may enter the electronics housing and destroy the optical element itself. In SOME cases people have managed to dissect, clean and rebuild the damaged housing... but usually, once it's shot you're going to have a much easier time shopping for a used replacement.

MAF = Mass Air Flow sensors (most commonly GM's hot wire type) are robust, fairly accurate (not as accurate as the KVAF, but much more than the VAF) and less restrictive than either of the previous systems. They are susceptible to damage from solvents or oils (as are the KVAF).

MAP/IAT (Speed/Density) = Manifold Air Pressure and Intake Air Temp are measured with two separate sensors. Manifold pressure is measured via nothing more than a vacuum source supplied by the manifold and the temperature sensor is the ONLY obstruction in the intake path. This system is as unrestrictive as you get and arguably more robust than all three of the aforementioned systems.

There are electronics out there which will allow you to convert from one system to the next. These setups are not cheap, but once in place replacing the components of some is far less expensive than others (KVAF is probably the most expensive to replace).

Unfortunately, you learned about the frailties of the KVAF the hard way. In the future you may want to seek another opinion before using solvents on sensors.

Best of luck with the car!


Oh, and by the way, you may hear of the MKIII's meter referred to as the AFM. This is a generic term used for all of the different meters used by Toyota. It simply means "Air Flow Meter" but is nondescript and provides no information as to what type of meter you're referring to. As such it doesn't hurt to mention what type of meter or whether it's on a turbo or nonturbo model.

getting some where now
 

ok the housing is called ? and the electronic box screwed into is called KVAF .So i can change the electronics and be ok ? If thats the case my next problem is finding the electronics.
My original post was :there is a post her stating a Lexus 400 housing and electronics will work with the supra.I know it needs the 550 injectors probably more fuel delivery.I have a 3 inch exhaust with the divorced downpipe and a blitz SBC my spare ct26 is going in for a new trim.So I will be looking to due these upgrades with the lexus parts anyway.My question is and I should have just left it too that when I first posted....DOES the fucking box and the electronics from the lexus work on the MK3 turbo 89 or due I still need to find a stock toyota electronic KVAF- if thats what it is called.
I guarantee I am not the only person who has fucked up a part by cleaning it.So I mentioned it in a humbling manner to perhaps help some other simple fuck out there .Not to recieve condemnation for it .So please only answer the direct mechanical question with out personal statements.After all thats why we are here.My car is not my life I HAVE A LIFE.
to fuck face let me know when your in Vancouver

The electronics in the Lexus meter do not work in the Supra. The stock electronics of the turbo Supra will bolt into the larger housing of the Leaxus air flow meter. You still need good electronics.

At this point you might as well try pulling the electronics out of the meter and VERY carefully cleaning them with brake cleaner. Don't use too much as it eats seals and plastics. There exists the possibility that the oils usually left behind by carb cleaner have just fogged the outside of the optical sensor. I'd spray it on cotton swabs and slowly clean it out by hand.

Please try to break your posts up into paragraphs.

Supramacist is (as his screen name suggests) thoroughly bull headed about some things... mainly anyone who wasn't born knowing everything about the Supra. I think he should chill out though... it's counter productive and annoying as hell. (HINT)

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ke-offers.html


his selling his afm for 75 bucks. try that. if not try your luck at the junk yard.

good luck on getting it back up and running though.

Fixed It!!!
 

I hope I'm not getting ahead of myself but it seems just fine.
I think it was CRE who said I may aswell go ahead and take it apart.I don't know if he meant take the top off of it but I did and the carefull part is not stabbing yourself with the very sharp german peeling knife.
But thats what I did
Now...looking inside that little box had me a little intimidated ! So I gave up
I mean I blew through the air openings ,it sat on my desk for a day or so.and I thought "what the hell glue this thing back together and try it maybe it dried out.
As you know it is cold in Vancouver right now and maybe sitting with the top off might have done somegthing EH ? (canadian)
I only had JB weld in the house so I aint ever taking it apart again lol
Runs fine Although I forgot to tighten a clamp by my HKS BOV and at first I thought shit.but after tightening it its all good (I hope)


Thanks again for all your suggestions and advice

Next time you spray electrical compenants be sure to get stuff that is made for that and doesnt leave residue...


Sure break cleaner works on alot of things but if say im cleaning my throttle body i get throttle body cleaner.... Or if im cleaning out my engine bay and need to clean electrical connections i dont spray it with Gunks degreaser.... i get the electrical cleaner ...

right
 

really ..dam I still have half a can of TB cleaner.
pretty sure I figured that one out by my self.