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the on that looks like an overflow and has a turn knob just above it.?
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The timing light pickup should be on # 6 HT lead; don’t forget to short out terminals T and E1 in the diagnosis box. I've never had a problem with air trapped in the cooling system. I normally set the heater controls on to hot and fill up the system fairly slowly, start the engine with the cap off and leave it for about 3 minutes, put the cap back on and gravity does the rest. I assume and air would be expelled into the expansion tank and when the engine cools down only coolant would be sucked back in. (that’s providing you have remembered to fill up the expansion bottle to above halfway)
I've seen post about burping the system, where you remove the jiggle valve and drill a 4mm hole in the thermostat, park the supra facing up a hill, stand on one leg, let the engine run for a while with the cap off and out pops the air bubbles. (Standing on one leg is optional) Power steering, funny you should ask that; I've never removed the PS Reservoir even when removing the engine, I understand the procedure is this; Start the engine and let it tick over between 800 and 1,000 revs, Remove the PS Reservoir cap, keep tuning the steering wheel slowly to one lock to another, you should see air bubbles rising up. If you can, it would be better to raise the front wheels of the ground. Great weather today Andy hope it lasts for next weekend. |
hello mate ok ill try cylinder six, when i tried it last time i wasnt even close.
you say T and E1 but there isnt a T on its own there is a Tt and a TE1 when i timed it with my neighbour we did it with TE1 and E1 and. |
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Quote:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...tionTiming.jpg |
hi bill ill try retiming on cylinder six tommorow after work and see if this helps with the lumpness cheers.
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ok. coulnt time the car on cylinder 6 it wouldnt start ,timed it on 1 again which ran better but still very lumpy. but when i looked under the car the exhaust was glowing red hot almost see through it.
ive played with the cam position sensor moved it around etc while on cylinder 6 and it wont start. when i had it running on cylinder 1 i took the timing light of 1 and place it on six and the markings moved to 20 past( bottom of the crank pulley) cant adjust without it stalling. im starting to wonder if the valve timing is out and the guy at the machine shop put the cams in wrong way round?? cant do no more till i find some answers looking to all the people in the know how about timing this vehicle.??? |
Ok start at the beginning; drain some of the coolant and remove the top hose, remove the top cam cover to expose the cam pulleys, remove # 1 spark plug and insert a clean rod or clean wooden dowel into the spark plug hole, it needs to be about 12 inches long and ? diameter approx (not too short that you loose it down the hole) turn the crankshaft and watch the rod go up and down. When the rod is at its highest point and the crank pulley is at zero that will be top dead centre. Now check the cam pulleys are aligned with the match marks on the cover, both should be at the top. If they are not, remove the cam belt and reposition them to the correct position. Reinstall the cam belt, remove the CPS and reinstall as stated in the online cygnusx1
MK3 TSRM On-Line |
Another thing worth checking is that cam pulleys are bolted to the camshaft correctly; they should be mounted with the dowel pin in the middle hole. After you have bolted it on and you need to line up the match marks for timing, rotate the pulley and the cam together.
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hi bill, still problems was 180 out corrected that and drove round the block this was timed on cylinder 1. cylinder 6 just wont time. still lumpy
cylinder 6 is at the back of the engine number 1 at the front no one else as ever heard of timing on number 6???? did you time number 6 yourself or did someone else do it? |
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