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Don't remove the cam shafts. Or the valve covers.
DO, remove the air intake and plenums. Remove the fuel injection parts. Just don't crack into the head. BE careful where you and how you sit it. Keep the place clean and flat. DON't drop it. Your machinist will want the head and cams and all of that. You should probably prepare for a valve job. Again your machinist will let you know. You want to remember how much he shaved from the head also so you can use that number to figure your mhg thickness. Now..., Start checking all of your antique stock hoses. Especially the ones for the coolant system. Get rid of all of those ancient stock hose clamps. Get worm clamps and wratchet those bitches down after replacing the hose. You may as well replace your starter while you are here. Never again will it be so darn easy. Port and Polish that head. You"ll be thanking you later for doing so. Break into the kids college funds and spare no expense. |
bottom end
well took the head down to the machine shop today he told me the bottom end on these engines are weak and dont last long is this true?
gonna leave the rest today tired:boring: worked on it everyday since i got it last week, pick up where i left off next week, still got cambelt to remove. the cam position sensor, i took off the back cover and marked the inside so i know where this goes when the cams go back in, think i leave the adjuster loose until i get the new cam belt on. think this is right. anyway time to:boring: laters. |
gaskets
just phoned toyota for a gasket set, they quoted me 230 quid for a full gasket set ouch!:eek2:
the gasket set was 167 quid and 50 quid for the head gasket, im thinking of buying the head gasket from toyota but the remaining gaskets i.e turbo, manifold, plenum etc elsewhere. does this seem ok. only the american ebay site has a selection of gaskets. the uk one has nothing really, very odd. another question im afraid. The plate that sits between the 2 rockercovers what is this, mine looks really worn and peeling? its the one thast sits over the top of the spark plugs. |
The cam belt is called the timming belt.
That compartment has to be clean enough for the virgin mary to eat out of. You don't even want to touch that belt much. And that gasket set will NOT have every gasket in it you need. |
gasket
thanks for reply i know the cambelt is calledthe timing belt did i mis spell something?
im aware of the gasket set wont include all gaskets, i iknow the turbo oil pipe will be missing but not srue about the others if you could tell me what they are would greatly appreciate it. regards Andy |
Well none of the air intake seals will be there.
There are a few other obscure ones that I fail to recall. |
Ta
thanks for all the tips supramacist.
everyones being very helpful:) |
lapping
4 Attachment(s)
hi, im using 1200 grit fine sandpaper and 3x6 inch block is this ok?
this is about 2 hours work. dont wanna ruin the block. |
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I did what you are doing and I did it for the better part of 2 weeks. Wear that paper out on the block and keep sanding. Figure 8's would be good and dont stay in 1 spot for too long. It's going to be hard to mess that block up dude. It's solid. Rotate your crank shaft to get the pistons down out of the sanding area. If you shine em up a lil bit it's cool. Keep a level and feeler gauges. Check this constantly. It'll really help you. 1200 grit will take you a month:sadwavey:. Keep that surface lubricated. I used PB BLaster. Lucas oil treatment would be a good lube for lapping. Regular motor oil would be fine as well. As for the seal kit. It's only going to have the seals for things that bolt directly to the head. Everything else..., may as well come from the dealership. These seals are cheap enough and order 2 sets for the intake for the retorque. Now's a good time to replace all the hoses and all of that trash. |
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